For better or for worse, I was simply not moved by the holy sites in the Holy Land. And yet something happened that I will never forget.
This post gets a little personal, but it was a central part of my trip to Israel, so I am including it in my trip report. This blog deliberately does not generally veer into an overtly religious or political direction. Today is an exception.
My Christian faith is not of a charismatic or Pentecostal type. I’m not amused by modern-day signs and wonders; I’m skeptical of them. I question whether the revered and hallowed sites are the actual places, though I do believe in the historical events which underlie them.
Frankly, an empty tomb is an empty tomb. Did Jesus rise from the grave? That question doesn’t really depend upon whether the Church has preserved the place where it occurred or did not.
Any expectations of a religious moment of emotion or closeness to God were quickly dashed, by the immense crowds and circus-like atmosphere of so many of the holy sites, both in Jerusalem and the Galilee.
It’s hard to concentrate with pushing and shoving, people cutting in line, and flash photography.
You would think that standing on the Galilee beside where Jesus likely preached the Sermon on the Mount would be a moving experience. Perhaps it would have been in other circumstances. But instead there was a tour bus full of people with selfie-sticks who commoditized the whole experience.
But there was one moment that truly moved me, and it had nothing to do with the site itself. We happened to be in the Garden Tomb, a (wait for it…) garden tomb outside the old city walls of Jerusalem that many believe Jesus was buried in.
There, while we were waiting in line to enter the tomb, my son Augustine began to sing the 1865 hymn Jesus Paid It All.
You should have seen the surprised looks from everyone around us. Who was this three-year old belting out a hymn spontaneously at the top of his lungs?
And then something amazing happened. Others began to sing. More and more. From the voice of Augustine, a choir of voices, united by a common faith, sang in unison this well-known hymn.
The Church is not a building. It is not an empty tomb or a creed. It is people.
My experience was not magical. But it was profound. The sites did not move me, but the people did…including my own son.
Sadly, I did not capture this on video or I would have shared it here. Then again, then I would have been contributing to the problem. But it will forever linger in my heart.
If you had been “capturing this on video,” then would ‘t you have become part of the very problem you regret encountering everywhere else?
Correct! I still wish I had it. 😉
And that, sir, is EXACTLY why the problems is the problem that it is.
People know that their activities cheapen and ruin things (well, at least some are aware of that – others seem utterly oblivious). Yet still they do those things anyway, even though they know they should not. Because…
Something to consider.
And I thought I was missing something! I had no child nor did anyone break out into song in our small group. One woman took numerous pictures of herself in front of one thing and then another. Her cameral on a stick was enough to break any sense of ‘holy.’ I’m glad I made it to the Holy Land, for sure, but the Bible images I have in my head will endure forever as my mental travel Holy Land experience. Thanks for your article! Well said!
Thanks for sharing this moment in your faith and family Matthew.
Thanks for sharing this, Matthew. Gave me goosebumps. Jesus did indeed pay it all!
*hallowed
Thanks Matthew. Praying for you, that you would become spirit-filled, and that that inspiration would cause these sites to come alive to you.
Just think of it objectively. Jesus rising from the grave? More like he got too drunk or went in a coma or something. And it wore off after a few days or maybe they were pulling a fast one on gullible idiots to steal money. Or he was hiding. This isn’t even a very smart mystery plot.
Christianity was a cult. Maybe they were even just a gang like todatys MS-13. The only reason it was elevated to this huge religion was because of the last Roman emperor. Else Christianity would have disappeared. They were hounded as thugs and common criminals. Just think, why was jesus crucified with common criminals? Because he was. It’s only later people that put jesus on a pedestal as something to unify people. A symbol to rally around.
Every religious person is a member of a cult, just a member of a gang that is more organized and well codified than say al Qaeda or MS-13 but you are no different. And anyone that has never objectively questioned their faith or religion is just an idiot.
Be religious, but be sure you know why. I don’t trust any religion that proselytizes. So don’t trust christianity and Islam. It’s a business. And the way people intertwine religion and politics you know it is just used to provoke people.
WHERE IS THE BODY, THEN, debit?
He preached he would be raised in three days. The tomb was guarded. Surely you must realize that had it been a hoax, it would have been exposed one way or another, by people such as yourself? Your detailed “analysis” leaves much to be desired. But you are certainly entitled to your own opinion.
WHERE IS THE BODY? Please, tell me where.
He has risen !
Debit, the last Roman Emperor was Flavius Romulus Augustus not your Flavius Valerius Aurelius Constantinus Augustus who elevated Christianity. Also, your MS 13 gang fits the Sicarii, a splinter group of knife murdering zealots, rather than often martyred Christians. The internet has enough fake news and doesn’t need fake history. A people without the knowledge of their past history, origin and culture is like a tree without roots – Marcus Garvey.
Completely uncalled for. And I say that as a firm nonbeliever. You’ve stooped down to the level of the proselytizers and zealots that I’m sure you criticize every chance you get.
@debit, you correctly cited the most important claim of the Christian faith, that Jesus rose from the dead. If Jesus rose from the dead, then he has conquered death and effectively validated everything else recorded about him in the Bible including raising others back to life. If he did not rise from the dead, then as the Apotle Paul said in 1 Corinthians 15, “And if Christ is not risen, then our preaching is empty and your faith is also empty. … And if Christ is not risen, your faith is futile; you are still in your sins! … If in this life only we have hope in Christ, we are of all men the most pitiable.”
Paul, formerly called Saul, was a well-educated Jewish Pharisee who went from persecuting and arresting Christians to being the most prolific writer in the New Testament. His letters provide his own conversion testimony (after a memorable encounter with the living Christ) and legal basis for the sacrificial death of Jesus on the cross. Hope you’ll take time to take a serious look at the evidence, while there is still time to do so.
@George, “proselytizing” can be as difficult for Christians (to witness/share) as it is for nonbelievers (to listen to). Let me pose a question… if you knew of a diet/health/living plan that would enable anyone to live a healthy life to the age of 150, and you had family/friends/others who were heavy smokers plus high-cholesterol/high-sugar eaters who were likely to die before age 65, would you (or would you not) be willing to “proselytize” them to offer/recommend a change in their living habits? Christians face a similar question/challenge, with the impact/benefits massively greater than living to 150.
These are the same talking points that Amway uses to sell its products and hook in associates. Anyway learned its sales pitches in churches.
It’s the right wingers became less socialist. Give up your tax exemption and pay taxes like real patriots.
These are today’s christian’s and Republicans. Hardly human.
https://features.propublica.org/medical-debt/when-medical-debt-collectors-decide-who-gets-arrested-coffeyville-kansas/
debit, your arguments are somewhat random and even ad hominem in nature, but if that’s your thought train, so be it.
The term “Christians” is a broad, almost nebulous term, that includes many conservatives but also liberals as well. It’s funny how critics of Christianity use stereotypes as egregious as the narrow mindedness they accuse Christians of being guilty of (which can be true in some cases, admittedly).
What I suggest you focus on is the core of Christianity, Jesus Christ himself. Forget all the politics and religiosity, churches/organizations. Straight up, how would you (and I or anyone) respond to a direct command from Jesus? Would you obey willingly or brush it off? That’s the heart of the matter, where the life-defining choice and long-term consequences lie.
Thank you for sharing. We went on a Jesus Footsteps tour and felt exactly the same way. It was not at all what we expected. We are still thankful to have been able to visit but the crowds and marketing were difficult to ignore.
A very special moment. Thanks for sharing.
As far as your article is concerned, I knew the trolls would come out and post derogatory and or unpleasant self-righteous comments.
I react similarly. My deepest reactions to religious sites has been when I’m with a group of inspired people. Example: in Santiago de Compostela at the tomb of St. James after traveling the Camino Santiago.
I take very private small groups on tours of Israel and I warn each Christian that most of the sites will not be what you imagine. Many won’t seem special or may be special in retrospect later but each person will encounter some sites that will just impact them spiritually, maybe even to tears. Every time I go there I find something new that strikes me as special. A person who doesn’t have faith will not be able to understand. 2 Corinthians 4 even talks about this. I think a lot of people visit the Holy Sepulchre tomb and then the Garden Tomb and they are such polar opposites. Neither may be the exact site of Christ’s tomb but the quietness and singing at the Garden Tomb has a special effect on many. To me, I enjoy the Garden Tomb as a place to reflect but I am drawn to the Stone of Unction at the Holy Sepulchre which seems really powerful to me personally. Not sure why. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Thanks for sharing, Matthew. As a Christian who also visited the Holy Lands, it was a mixed experience depending on the crowds, etc. I fortunately had a very quiet experience in Galilee that was meaningful and went to the Garden Tomb close to closing time so it was quiet and meditative there too. The Via Dolorosa and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, on the other hand were extremely crowded and chaotic. Crowds aside, I think it’s putting into perspective the geography and how important the land is/was in the time of Jesus and to the Israelites and meshed with our faith and the stories that makes and made the visit meaningful for me and so many others. I don’t think there’s anything mystical about the sites in and of themselves.
well please forgive my gratuitous slap on an earlier post – not sure what i perceived as an affront, but do remember I was wrongly nasty. 🙁 my apologies
this is a wonderful story with me coming from a hymn singing family. while I’m not familiar with the song, what is the back story on your son’s knowing the song or otherwise amazing – like the Grace of our Creator
And I was taught and believe the church really is the People! 🙂
Matthew, I appreciate your sharing this. I think I’m right there with you in your 1st paragraph thoughts! It’s great that you had that moment with your son! If you enjoy the old hymns, check out Indelible Grace! They have several albums of the old hymns.
Thanks for sharing your experience and the impact a young child can have!
“From the mouths of Babes God has ordained praise.”
Thanks for sharing. That was a holy moment and your words and heart captured it for us.
“Sin had left a crimson stain, He washed it white as snow”
Thanks for sharing. Grace flows sideways–through people, which is the way God chooses to work (involving us, his church, the people as you said). In this case, I’m sure it was a wonder to experience it through your son. Take care.
Curiously, I’m a non-believer, but I do still revel in the magical shared human experience of such unexpected events, regardless of how they came to be. Life’s curious, unexpected, and magical moments aren’t so much, in my mind, a product of the divine, so much as a gift to those willing to slow themselves enough to witness that which presents itself unexpectedly.
As a Christian I can’t disagree with you regarding many of these “religious sites”. As a kid 15 years ago, I used to be amazed by churches across Europe as something special but today most don’t impress me as they are far removed from actual religious principles of Christianity like traditional family values where a man leaves himself home, marries a Virgin, has kids, no divorce and follows the 10 commandments. Given what western society has become I think what a waste those structures were. They are just photo stops for tourists who appreciate architecture. I can’t say I do different. The holy sites in Israel seem special but they are 2000 years removed from the events and regarding places like the cave, birthplace or churches, we don’t know if these are actually the places where these things occurred.
Went on a Holy Land tour with a large group from our church, led by our senior pastor, in 2013. It was, without a doubt, one of the most impactful trips I’ve ever been on. At each site we visited, our pastor cited the relevant sections of the Bible and gave an accompanying message to bring out the Biblical/historical/political significance. Listening to one of those messages in the midst of the giant stones that were once part of the Second Temple, that Jesus prophesied (in Matt 24, Mark 13, Luke 19 and 21) would be destroyed, was sobering. But it was also sobering to see the prison-like walls that separate the Israeli and Palestinian sides. The commercial aspects were certainly there, but our tour group managed (with candid explanations of shopping opportunities) to provide tour members with opportunities to opt in or out.
Matthew, thank you for this, made my day.