• Home
  • Reviews
    • Flight Reviews
    • Hotel Reviews
    • Lounge Reviews
    • Trip Reports
  • About
    • Press
  • Contact
  • Privacy
  • Award Expert
Live and Let's Fly
  • Home
  • Reviews
    • Flight Reviews
    • Hotel Reviews
    • Lounge Reviews
    • Trip Reports
  • About
    • Press
  • Contact
  • Privacy
  • Award Expert
Home » Israel » How I Spent Three Days In Jerusalem
IsraelTrip Reports

How I Spent Three Days In Jerusalem

Matthew Klint Posted onFebruary 3, 2020November 14, 2023 23 Comments

We began our trip to Israel in Jerusalem, an ancient city with deep links to the Abrahamic faiths. Our three days focused on religious sites, but we also enjoyed the joy of bartering in the Old City and found unexpected sanctuary…in a sanctuary.

Day #1: Acclimation

We arrived Sunday afternoon and after taking the “high speed” train from TLV to Jerusalem, we found our apartment (more on that tomorrow…) and got settled. We were situated in Mahane Yehuda, a busy part of town about 20 minutes by foot from the Old City.

a street with buildings and people walking

Right away, I noticed how expensive food was in Israel…lunch for the two set us back over $30, something that would have been less than half of that in the USA or Germany. This wasn’t a scam: the prices were posted. Had my three-year-old ordered his own lunch, it would have been $45 for fast food? That’s crazy.

a plate of food on a table

a burrito with meat and vegetables on a white paper

Since our apartment had a kitchen, we went grocery shopping and were again somewhat surprised at how expensive everything was…20NIS (almost $6) for a small loaf of bread? Well, I was able to negotiate it down to 12NIS, but I still thought that was a bit much.

I had wanted to stay at Saint George’s Pilgrim Guest House, part of the Anglican Church in Jerusalem, but my wife preferred our Airbnb apartment because it was half the price (are you sensing a theme? My German wife is very frugal). While Heidi and Augustine took a nap, I went to church, attending an Evensong at said Anglican Church, a beautiful alcove just outside the Old City gates.

a sign on a wall

a building with a cross and a pillar with lights on it

a church with many chairs

a stone building with a doorway and plants

I returned, we had dinner, and went to bed early.

Day #2: Around The Old City

We began our second day by moving out of our apartment and into a Lutheran Guest House in the Old City…that unplanned move ate up half of our morning.

Our new accommodations were much smaller, but we had a beautiful view of the Old City and Temple Mount. I would have preferred to try out the nearby Waldorf-Astoria, but Heidi balked at the cost…I just love her. By this time, my Anglican Guest House was sold out, so instead it was this:

a child in a red coat with a suitcase in a narrow alley

a door in a stone building

a room with wicker furniture and tables

a bed with a blue and white blanket and a wood door

a child standing on a balcony overlooking a city

a city with a tower and trees

a city with a gold dome

a city with a tower and trees

One thing I loved about this guest house (130EUR/night) was the beautiful garden area, which offered a tranquil place to relax in the crisp winter sun. Even the coffee was decent.

a stone building with a fountain and trees

a tree in a garden

a tree with leaves and a city in the background

a stone building with a door and windows

a patio with a palm tree and chairs

people standing outside a bar

a coffee machine on a counter

a bar with bottles of wine and snacks on a shelf

a child in a red coat

Breakfast also nice here, with a generous spread of food and kind staff that happily accommodated additional requests (strawberries and pistachios, yum…).

a room with tables and chairs

a bowl of strawberries

We then started walking through the winding streets filled with vendors who thankfully were not all that aggressive in trying to lure you into their shops.

Our first official stop was the Church of Holy Sepulchre, the site some hold that Jesus of Nazareth was crucified. Sadly, the huge crowds and flash photography made it feel like an amusement park rather than a house of worship inside. When in Rome…I took some pictures too, if for nothing else than to document the crowds.

a group of people standing in a courtyard of Church of the Holy Sepulchre

a group of people in a room with a large group of people

a large chandelier in a large building

a ceiling with a painting on it

a circular ceiling with a light in the middle with Church of the Holy Sepulchre in the background

a large round building with a large metal gate

a man standing in front of a painting

a mural in a church

I’m not sure why, but I decided to spend about 90 minutes in line waiting to go inside the Aedicula, an inner room (pictured below) where tradition holds that Jesus was buried. No pictures in there, but most did not observe the priest’s plea to refrain from taking pictures.

a group of people in a large stone building

a group of people standing in front of a stone archway

a ornate arch with ornaments and candles

a group of candles on a wall

a painting of a man
Didn’t you know Jesus had blonde hair and blue eyes?

By this point, my wife was quite disappointed. Had she come all this way just to wait in long lines? I assured her the other sites would not be so bad.

I used the moment to get a shave, something I hate doing myself and love going to a barber for. For 20NIS (~$6.00), it was well worth it and everyone loved little Augustine, who also demanded a shave…

a man sitting in a barber shop

a man sitting in a chair in a barber shop

a person shaving a man's head

a group of people sitting in chairs

We walked outside the city gates and next hit the Garden Tomb, another tomb some believe Jesus was buried in. The garden was well-manicured and sits beside a hill that somewhat resembles a skull. This has caused some to claim it is Golgotha, the Mount of the Skull mentioned in all four New Testament gospels.

a sign on a stone wall

a sign on a stone wall

a stone wall with trees and people walking down a path

a green archway with a sign on it

a path with trees and bushes

a sign on a concrete wall

a stone wall with a hole in the side

a group of people outside a stone wall

a stone bench in a room

The Garden Tomb was near the St. Geroge’s, the Anglican Church and guest house, so we returned there for coffee and later dinner. Restaurants remain difficult with 3-year-old Augustine and the guest house was quite welcoming of kids and offered a nice evening spread for 72NIS (~$22) that included soup, salads, hot dishes, and desserts. Yes, a buffet. And yes, it is perfect if you are looking for good value and an accommodating environment for young children.

a bar with a shelf and glasses

a cat lying on a table

a room with tables and chairs

a plate of food on a table

a person walking in a hallway

Day #3: Wailing Wall + Temple Mount + Mount of Olives

We got an earlier start and headed to the Wailing Wall, also a short walk from our guest house. When you think about the history of the wall and destroyed temple and mix in the somber chanting and singing, it makes for a surreal experience. More so than anything else on the trip, my wife was touched by the genuine emotions poured out by pilgrims and worshippers on the wall.

a group of people outside a stone wall with Western Wall in the background

a stone wall with a flag in the background

a group of people in white robes with Western Wall in the background

a child standing in front of a stone wall

Next, we proceeded up to the Temple Mount. I won’t get into it too much here, but you can read my earlier discussion on accessing the Dome of the Rock mosque. The mosque was built over the place tradition holds that Jacob was ministered to by angels, as recorded in the Hebrew Bible. Consequently, it has religious significance for Christians, Jews, and Muslims. Sadly (in my mind), it is closely guarded and non-Muslims are not allowed inside. I’m of the opinion that such a site cannot belong to one group and should be opened to all. Then again, an unexpected visit to the Mount by former Israeli Prime Minister Ariel Sharon unleashed the Second Intifada in 2002, so perhaps it is simply not worthwhile…

a man and a child standing in front of Dome of the Rock

a building with a dome and blue tile

a fenced in area with trees and buildings in the background

a stone stairs leading to a building

a large building with a dome in the background

We next walked out the Golden Gate and made our way to the base of the Mount Olives, where we were stopped at what may have been the Garden of Gethsemane. I’d say of all the Christian sites we saw during the week, this one was most significant to me. Some claim the trees date back to the time of Jesus. It was a bit chilling to think this may have been the spot in which Jesus prayed before His betrayal and death.

a landscape with trees and buildings

a group of trees in a yard

a mosaic of a group of people in a church

a group of people in a church

From there, we headed up what was a very steep hill to the top of the Mount of Olives. The taxi touts were heavy ($10-20 to go up the hill). Don’t give in – the walk was steep, but I made it carrying Augustine (who by that time, was finished walking for the day). After visiting Pater Noster (also known as The Church of the Lord’s Prayer), we did end up taking a taxi (via Uber) back to the Old City after…downhill prices are more reasonable.

a group of trees in a field

a field of trees with a city in the background

a person standing in a hallway

a stone building with a cross on top of it

Mount of Olives landscape with a large stone wall and a large building

It was only midday, but I spent the rest of the afternoon working, Heidi exercised, and Augustine entertained himself with the house cat. We returned to the Anglican Guest House for dinner.

a dog lying on a rug in a hallway

a child lying on the floor next to a cat

a child lying on the floor with a cat

Funny story. We booked two nights initially at the guest house, but decided to stay a third night. The man at the front desk said we were welcome to stay the third night, but would have to move rooms.

“That room I put you in was actually reserved by a couple on their honeymoon. They showed up last night and I had to put them in a room with three twin beds!”

Ouch…

Our new room wasn’t bad:

a stone building with a door and plants

a room with two beds and a window

a room with two beds and a window

CONCLUSION

We spent the final day in the West Bank visiting Bethlehem. I will dedicate a separate post to that day trip. Although we encountered scattered rain showers during our stay, the cold weather made walking much easier.

I’ll look back fondly on this time. You can see we took things at an easy pace. Part of what made the three days so nice was the ability to eat breakfast at a leisurely pace and enjoy reading in the garden in the afternoon. There were a lot of Lutheran pilgrims staying at the guest house and they were herded in and out of breakfast and onto buses at the crack of dawn. While I’m sure they saw things we missed, I would not trade in our more leisurely pace for anything.

On the last day, as we prepared to leave we could not find Augustine. Before panic struck in, I had a feeling we’d find him near the front desk since he is so fascinated with elevators. Indeed, he had struck up a friendship with the hotel staff and we found him watching cartoons on YouTube (something he is not allowed to do at home). But the smiles foretell what lovely people run this guest house, so consider staying here if you are looking for basic but clean and comfortable positions in the middle of the Old City.

a man and woman in front of a computer

We also had to explain to Augustine he could not take the cat with us…

a child playing with a cat

What I missed most was not visiting Yad Vashem. That is at the top of my list for my next visit to Jerusalem, hopefully when Augustine is of age to understand what exactly the Holocaust was and why we need to remember it.

Get Daily Updates

Join our mailing list for a daily summary of posts! We never sell your info.

You have Successfully Subscribed!

Previous Article The Grim Future Of The A380
Next Article By Royal Decree: Onboard The Royal Jordanian Wuhan Rescue Flight

About Author

Matthew Klint

Matthew is an avid traveler who calls Los Angeles home. Each year he travels more than 200,000 miles by air and has visited more than 135 countries. Working both in the aviation industry and as a travel consultant, Matthew has been featured in major media outlets around the world and uses his Live and Let's Fly blog to share the latest news in the airline industry, commentary on frequent flyer programs, and detailed reports of his worldwide travel.

Related Posts

  • Spring Break JetBlue SAS

    Booked! A Transatlantic Getaway On JetBlue + SAS

    May 26, 2025
  • a man in a suit sitting on a bed

    Not Glamorous, But Kind Of Fun: A Travel Blogger’s Trip To NYC

    May 16, 2025
  • Israel Flight Cancellations

    Major Carriers Extend Flight Cancellations To Israel: Here’s The List

    May 14, 2025

23 Comments

  1. Jerry Reply
    February 3, 2020 at 4:18 pm

    That looks like a lovely trip, though I would have been itching to splurge for the Waldorf Astoria just like you were.

    Why do you figure food prices are so high?

    • Matthew Reply
      February 3, 2020 at 8:55 pm

      Great question and I really don’t know. Perhaps a resident of Israel can explain? We were not at a tourist trap. I even went to a “real” grocery store and also found prices higher than in the USA and Germany.

      • Uri Reply
        February 4, 2020 at 1:20 am

        Prices in Israel are indeed high, but looks like you walked into tourist traps.
        A plate of Shawarma should cost 10$ and not 15$, bread for 20 Shekels has to be some fancy artisan bread.

        But yes, prices are higher than USA or Germany. Hard to say why. A part of it is that having no overland import makes imported goods more expensive, and this affects local goods indirectly.

      • Morris Reply
        February 18, 2020 at 3:18 am

        Prices are generally higher, but there is no shortage of authentic “local/hole-in-the-wall” establishments with extremely reasonable prices, perhaps even lower than what you’d find in the U.S. or Europe; however, most of these places would seem unappealing to a tourist from the outside, or would not be located in typical tourist areas. For example, a place right by where I live has gigantic chicken baguette sandwiches for only 20 shekels, which could easily go for double or moret at a “mainstream” place. A local gas station in town has an eatery attached to it that offers massive quantities of homemade food (I’m talking main course, 2 sides, like 10 side salads, bread, dips, drink) for only 35 shekels (I can eat a lot and never manage to come close to finishing). These are really only places someone local could guide you to.

        For reference, a “regular” loaf of sliced bread is actually under government price control, and costs around 6-7 shekels. This would be the regular loafs of sliced bread in plastic bags on the shelf, nothing fancy. Other items with controlled pricing include Israeli butter, milk, a few types of cheeses, and regular cartons of a dozen eggs (not free range/omega 3, etc.).

        High prices in supermarkets are due to a few reasons, most notable: 17% VAT on every item and service (except fruits and vegetables), tariffs, lack of land border for import, and the highly concentrated/monopolistic nature of the food manufacturing/import market. But again, buying generic/off brand goods can save you some (but certainly no tourist would know what is “name brand” and what is “off brand”), as can buying in certain ethnic supermarkets, usually aimed at ultra-religious local populations. Also, you may have gone to a non-mainstream/non-ethnic “neighborhood” supermarket, which tend to be higher priced.

  2. Mike Reply
    February 3, 2020 at 4:33 pm

    Augustine is one cool kid! He should take his passport with him when he walks into First Grade. It will be impressive.

    I renew my request of a nice photo of the elusive/shy Heidi!

    Thanks for sharing Matthew. What a super trip!

    • Matthew Reply
      February 3, 2020 at 8:55 pm

      Mike, she’s the one that needs to be convinced! 😉

  3. Daniel R Miller Reply
    February 3, 2020 at 5:04 pm

    Enjoyed your posts. Three days in Jerusalem,
    I have visited 9 times , still hearing new and wonderful things about Jerusalem, tks

  4. Andy K Reply
    February 3, 2020 at 5:44 pm

    Really cool post. Have you ever checked our Hezekiah’s tunnel?

  5. Ken M Reply
    February 3, 2020 at 5:54 pm

    Hopefully you made it up to Mount Megiddo to see where history will come to end – amazing the turn of events these days makes us closer than ever before!

  6. debit Reply
    February 3, 2020 at 6:01 pm

    Jerusalem should be declared a world heritage city and turned over to Disney parks and trump organization to build theme parks and hotels.

    It does not belong to Israelis or Palestinians. A dose of capitalism, joy rides, Mickey mouse and scantily clad women will bring us closer together.

    • debit Reply
      February 3, 2020 at 6:15 pm

      https://www.businessinsider.com/sanna-marin-finland-nordic-model-does-american-dream-better-wapo-2020-2

      ^^ Also this but i doubt the stupid are smart enough to comprehend and the evil are human enough to care.

    • Chris@Oak Reply
      February 3, 2020 at 6:20 pm

      @Debit,
      After Jordan invaded and captured Judea and the Eastern part of Jerusalem, these areas were closed off to Christians, Jews, and non-Muslims. Then, they went on a rampage destroying many historical sights.

      Then, in 1967, the Arabs attacked Israel again. This time, Israel liberated Jerusalem, and opened it to all faiths and tourists.

      Please seek medical treatment.

      • debit Reply
        February 3, 2020 at 9:58 pm

        Chris you exactly make my point for me. Israelis and Palestinian are too emotionally invested. For the rest of the world jerusalem is a place of just cool old buildings. Great place to have dance parties, cocktail parties etc.. amongst the ruins and temples and mosques.

        • Chris@Oak Reply
          February 4, 2020 at 1:22 am

          @Debit- Thanks for validating you need medical help.

          Matthew/ Fantastic review and photos. When you go back, I hope you’ll visit the recently opened City of David archeological tour.

          • debit
            February 4, 2020 at 4:36 am

            Nope. You guys can’t see humans, just religions. You bunch of idiots need to be in asylums.

  7. Ron Reply
    February 3, 2020 at 8:15 pm

    Great trip. Great report. If your son was mine I’m afraid he would be badly spoiled.

  8. Paolo Reply
    February 3, 2020 at 9:20 pm

    This is one of your best reports; I enjoyed it. It’s unnecessary for everything to be luxury/ 5*, and especially not in a place like Jerusalem.

  9. MeanMeosh Reply
    February 3, 2020 at 10:23 pm

    Great report. And it makes me smile that your son is a cat lover!

  10. John Johnston Reply
    February 3, 2020 at 10:25 pm

    What a beautiful building “Dome of the Rock” and area. I do agree that ideally staying in a 5 star luxury hotel makes for a better experience as it allows you to relax in a nice atmosphere and enjoy accommodations that are better than most people have the other 48-50 weeks a year they are not traveling. On vacation I don’t want to live like locals live in subpar accommodation but live better than I do at home. I don’t want to be out 16 hours a day but split the time touring and enjoying the hotel, the pool and amenities. It’s why I like business class so much. The ambiance of the cabin, the service and seat/suite color scheme and design make it a memorable experience.

    @Debit

    It is easy for Finland and other Nordic countries to have those things where there is a racially, ethnically, and culturally homogenous population of 5 million. What works for Swedes and Finns does not work for a country 3000 miles wide with 320 million people from too many different races, ethnic groups, cultures, religions and ideologies.

    • Rochelle Sweiner Reply
      June 26, 2022 at 12:14 pm

      320 million?!?

      Where do you get your “facts” from?

  11. 121Pilot Reply
    February 4, 2020 at 9:28 am

    Great review and some great tips for good places to stay. Given your experience I think I’d rather be at the guest house than the Waldorf no matter how nice it is.

    Thanks for sharing I very much enjoyed this post.

  12. Billiken Reply
    February 4, 2020 at 2:04 pm

    Great review, enjoyed it! Home stays/rentals usually are a last resort for me. I prefer the simplicity, security, and privacy of a hotel

  13. Andy Reply
    February 6, 2020 at 2:32 pm

    Prices in Israel for food are high because of socialist planning by the government that sets the prices of commodities, issues tariffs on imported foods and offers no incentive for farmers to compete. Then on the commercial side the government has allowed massive trust buildup so that 5-6 companies control most of the food production in Israel. In general, many sectors of the Israeli economy are not set up as healthy regulated free market areas. Quite the opposite. Americans often forget how good they have it. The US auto market is the most competitive in the world. You probably can’t find cheaper prices for a car model outside the US and virtually every important model is for sale. Other goods are often similar.

Leave a Reply

Cancel reply

Search

Hot Deals for May

Note: Please see my Advertiser Disclosure

Capital One Venture X Business Card
Earn 150,000 Miles Sign Up Bonus
Chase Sapphire Preferred® Card
Earn 100,000 Points
Capital One Venture X Rewards Credit Card
Capital One Venture X Rewards Credit Card
Earn 75,000 Miles!
Capital One Venture Rewards Credit Card
Capital One Venture Rewards Credit Card
Earn 75,000 Miles
Chase Ink Business Unlimited® Credit Card
Earn $750 Cash Back
The Business Platinum Card® from American Express
The Business Platinum Card® from American Express
Earn 120,000 Membership Reward® Points

Recent Posts

  • United JetBlue Strategy
    Analysis: United Hopes To Contain Delta, Suppress American With JetBlue Partnership May 29, 2025
  • JetBlue United Blue Sky
    Details: New JetBlue – United “Blue Sky” Partnership Includes JFK Slots, Reciprocal Loyatly Perks May 29, 2025
  • Eurowings Real Business Class
    Eurowings Plans “Real” A320neo Business Class Seat On Medium-Haul Flights May 29, 2025
  • Turkey Fine Passengers Unbuckle
    Impatient Flyers, Beware: Turkey Will Fine You For Standing Up Too Soon May 28, 2025

Categories

Popular Posts

  • United Airlines Polaris Lounge Chicago Review
    Review: United Polaris Lounge Chicago (ORD) May 1, 2025
  • a hand holding a blue card
    Chase Sapphire Preferred 100K Bonus Offer Ending Soon May 2, 2025
  • Aegean Airlines Feast
    A Feast Fit For A King On Aegean Airlines May 23, 2025
  • United American O’Hare gate dispute
    United Airlines To American Airlines: Fly More, Sue Less May 6, 2025

Archives

May 2025
M T W T F S S
 1234
567891011
12131415161718
19202122232425
262728293031  
« Apr    

As seen on:

facebook twitter instagram rss
Privacy Policy © Live and Let's Fly All Rights Reserved. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Live and Let's Fly with appropriate and specific directions to the original content.