We began our trip to Israel in Jerusalem, an ancient city with deep links to the Abrahamic faiths. Our three days focused on religious sites, but we also enjoyed the joy of bartering in the Old City and found unexpected sanctuary…in a sanctuary.
Day #1: Acclimation
We arrived Sunday afternoon and after taking the “high speed” train from TLV to Jerusalem, we found our apartment (more on that tomorrow…) and got settled. We were situated in Mahane Yehuda, a busy part of town about 20 minutes by foot from the Old City.
Right away, I noticed how expensive food was in Israel…lunch for the two set us back over $30, something that would have been less than half of that in the USA or Germany. This wasn’t a scam: the prices were posted. Had my three-year-old ordered his own lunch, it would have been $45 for fast food? That’s crazy.
Since our apartment had a kitchen, we went grocery shopping and were again somewhat surprised at how expensive everything was…20NIS (almost $6) for a small loaf of bread? Well, I was able to negotiate it down to 12NIS, but I still thought that was a bit much.
I had wanted to stay at Saint George’s Pilgrim Guest House, part of the Anglican Church in Jerusalem, but my wife preferred our Airbnb apartment because it was half the price (are you sensing a theme? My German wife is very frugal). While Heidi and Augustine took a nap, I went to church, attending an Evensong at said Anglican Church, a beautiful alcove just outside the Old City gates.
I returned, we had dinner, and went to bed early.
Day #2: Around The Old City
We began our second day by moving out of our apartment and into a Lutheran Guest House in the Old City…that unplanned move ate up half of our morning.
Our new accommodations were much smaller, but we had a beautiful view of the Old City and Temple Mount. I would have preferred to try out the nearby Waldorf-Astoria, but Heidi balked at the cost…I just love her. By this time, my Anglican Guest House was sold out, so instead it was this:
One thing I loved about this guest house (130EUR/night) was the beautiful garden area, which offered a tranquil place to relax in the crisp winter sun. Even the coffee was decent.
Breakfast also nice here, with a generous spread of food and kind staff that happily accommodated additional requests (strawberries and pistachios, yum…).
We then started walking through the winding streets filled with vendors who thankfully were not all that aggressive in trying to lure you into their shops.
Our first official stop was the Church of Holy Sepulchre, the site some hold that Jesus of Nazareth was crucified. Sadly, the huge crowds and flash photography made it feel like an amusement park rather than a house of worship inside. When in Rome…I took some pictures too, if for nothing else than to document the crowds.
I’m not sure why, but I decided to spend about 90 minutes in line waiting to go inside the Aedicula, an inner room (pictured below) where tradition holds that Jesus was buried. No pictures in there, but most did not observe the priest’s plea to refrain from taking pictures.
By this point, my wife was quite disappointed. Had she come all this way just to wait in long lines? I assured her the other sites would not be so bad.
I used the moment to get a shave, something I hate doing myself and love going to a barber for. For 20NIS (~$6.00), it was well worth it and everyone loved little Augustine, who also demanded a shave…
We walked outside the city gates and next hit the Garden Tomb, another tomb some believe Jesus was buried in. The garden was well-manicured and sits beside a hill that somewhat resembles a skull. This has caused some to claim it is Golgotha, the Mount of the Skull mentioned in all four New Testament gospels.
The Garden Tomb was near the St. Geroge’s, the Anglican Church and guest house, so we returned there for coffee and later dinner. Restaurants remain difficult with 3-year-old Augustine and the guest house was quite welcoming of kids and offered a nice evening spread for 72NIS (~$22) that included soup, salads, hot dishes, and desserts. Yes, a buffet. And yes, it is perfect if you are looking for good value and an accommodating environment for young children.
Day #3: Wailing Wall + Temple Mount + Mount of Olives
We got an earlier start and headed to the Wailing Wall, also a short walk from our guest house. When you think about the history of the wall and destroyed temple and mix in the somber chanting and singing, it makes for a surreal experience. More so than anything else on the trip, my wife was touched by the genuine emotions poured out by pilgrims and worshippers on the wall.
Next, we proceeded up to the Temple Mount. I won’t get into it too much here, but you can read my earlier discussion on accessing the Dome of the Rock mosque. The mosque was built over the place tradition holds that Jacob was ministered to by angels, as recorded in the Hebrew Bible. Consequently, it has religious significance for Christians, Jews, and Muslims. Sadly (in my mind), it is closely guarded and non-Muslims are not allowed inside. I’m of the opinion that such a site cannot belong to one group and should be opened to all. Then again, an unexpected visit to the Mount by former Israeli Prime Minister Ariel Sharon unleashed the Second Intifada in 2002, so perhaps it is simply not worthwhile…
We next walked out the Golden Gate and made our way to the base of the Mount Olives, where we were stopped at what may have been the Garden of Gethsemane. I’d say of all the Christian sites we saw during the week, this one was most significant to me. Some claim the trees date back to the time of Jesus. It was a bit chilling to think this may have been the spot in which Jesus prayed before His betrayal and death.
From there, we headed up what was a very steep hill to the top of the Mount of Olives. The taxi touts were heavy ($10-20 to go up the hill). Don’t give in – the walk was steep, but I made it carrying Augustine (who by that time, was finished walking for the day). After visiting Pater Noster (also known as The Church of the Lord’s Prayer), we did end up taking a taxi (via Uber) back to the Old City after…downhill prices are more reasonable.
It was only midday, but I spent the rest of the afternoon working, Heidi exercised, and Augustine entertained himself with the house cat. We returned to the Anglican Guest House for dinner.
Funny story. We booked two nights initially at the guest house, but decided to stay a third night. The man at the front desk said we were welcome to stay the third night, but would have to move rooms.
“That room I put you in was actually reserved by a couple on their honeymoon. They showed up last night and I had to put them in a room with three twin beds!”
Ouch…
Our new room wasn’t bad:
CONCLUSION
We spent the final day in the West Bank visiting Bethlehem. I will dedicate a separate post to that day trip. Although we encountered scattered rain showers during our stay, the cold weather made walking much easier.
I’ll look back fondly on this time. You can see we took things at an easy pace. Part of what made the three days so nice was the ability to eat breakfast at a leisurely pace and enjoy reading in the garden in the afternoon. There were a lot of Lutheran pilgrims staying at the guest house and they were herded in and out of breakfast and onto buses at the crack of dawn. While I’m sure they saw things we missed, I would not trade in our more leisurely pace for anything.
On the last day, as we prepared to leave we could not find Augustine. Before panic struck in, I had a feeling we’d find him near the front desk since he is so fascinated with elevators. Indeed, he had struck up a friendship with the hotel staff and we found him watching cartoons on YouTube (something he is not allowed to do at home). But the smiles foretell what lovely people run this guest house, so consider staying here if you are looking for basic but clean and comfortable positions in the middle of the Old City.
We also had to explain to Augustine he could not take the cat with us…
What I missed most was not visiting Yad Vashem. That is at the top of my list for my next visit to Jerusalem, hopefully when Augustine is of age to understand what exactly the Holocaust was and why we need to remember it.
That looks like a lovely trip, though I would have been itching to splurge for the Waldorf Astoria just like you were.
Why do you figure food prices are so high?
Great question and I really don’t know. Perhaps a resident of Israel can explain? We were not at a tourist trap. I even went to a “real” grocery store and also found prices higher than in the USA and Germany.
Prices in Israel are indeed high, but looks like you walked into tourist traps.
A plate of Shawarma should cost 10$ and not 15$, bread for 20 Shekels has to be some fancy artisan bread.
But yes, prices are higher than USA or Germany. Hard to say why. A part of it is that having no overland import makes imported goods more expensive, and this affects local goods indirectly.
Prices are generally higher, but there is no shortage of authentic “local/hole-in-the-wall” establishments with extremely reasonable prices, perhaps even lower than what you’d find in the U.S. or Europe; however, most of these places would seem unappealing to a tourist from the outside, or would not be located in typical tourist areas. For example, a place right by where I live has gigantic chicken baguette sandwiches for only 20 shekels, which could easily go for double or moret at a “mainstream” place. A local gas station in town has an eatery attached to it that offers massive quantities of homemade food (I’m talking main course, 2 sides, like 10 side salads, bread, dips, drink) for only 35 shekels (I can eat a lot and never manage to come close to finishing). These are really only places someone local could guide you to.
For reference, a “regular” loaf of sliced bread is actually under government price control, and costs around 6-7 shekels. This would be the regular loafs of sliced bread in plastic bags on the shelf, nothing fancy. Other items with controlled pricing include Israeli butter, milk, a few types of cheeses, and regular cartons of a dozen eggs (not free range/omega 3, etc.).
High prices in supermarkets are due to a few reasons, most notable: 17% VAT on every item and service (except fruits and vegetables), tariffs, lack of land border for import, and the highly concentrated/monopolistic nature of the food manufacturing/import market. But again, buying generic/off brand goods can save you some (but certainly no tourist would know what is “name brand” and what is “off brand”), as can buying in certain ethnic supermarkets, usually aimed at ultra-religious local populations. Also, you may have gone to a non-mainstream/non-ethnic “neighborhood” supermarket, which tend to be higher priced.
Augustine is one cool kid! He should take his passport with him when he walks into First Grade. It will be impressive.
I renew my request of a nice photo of the elusive/shy Heidi!
Thanks for sharing Matthew. What a super trip!
Mike, she’s the one that needs to be convinced! 😉
Enjoyed your posts. Three days in Jerusalem,
I have visited 9 times , still hearing new and wonderful things about Jerusalem, tks
Really cool post. Have you ever checked our Hezekiah’s tunnel?
Hopefully you made it up to Mount Megiddo to see where history will come to end – amazing the turn of events these days makes us closer than ever before!
Jerusalem should be declared a world heritage city and turned over to Disney parks and trump organization to build theme parks and hotels.
It does not belong to Israelis or Palestinians. A dose of capitalism, joy rides, Mickey mouse and scantily clad women will bring us closer together.
https://www.businessinsider.com/sanna-marin-finland-nordic-model-does-american-dream-better-wapo-2020-2
^^ Also this but i doubt the stupid are smart enough to comprehend and the evil are human enough to care.
@Debit,
After Jordan invaded and captured Judea and the Eastern part of Jerusalem, these areas were closed off to Christians, Jews, and non-Muslims. Then, they went on a rampage destroying many historical sights.
Then, in 1967, the Arabs attacked Israel again. This time, Israel liberated Jerusalem, and opened it to all faiths and tourists.
Please seek medical treatment.
Chris you exactly make my point for me. Israelis and Palestinian are too emotionally invested. For the rest of the world jerusalem is a place of just cool old buildings. Great place to have dance parties, cocktail parties etc.. amongst the ruins and temples and mosques.
@Debit- Thanks for validating you need medical help.
Matthew/ Fantastic review and photos. When you go back, I hope you’ll visit the recently opened City of David archeological tour.
Nope. You guys can’t see humans, just religions. You bunch of idiots need to be in asylums.
Great trip. Great report. If your son was mine I’m afraid he would be badly spoiled.
This is one of your best reports; I enjoyed it. It’s unnecessary for everything to be luxury/ 5*, and especially not in a place like Jerusalem.
Great report. And it makes me smile that your son is a cat lover!
What a beautiful building “Dome of the Rock” and area. I do agree that ideally staying in a 5 star luxury hotel makes for a better experience as it allows you to relax in a nice atmosphere and enjoy accommodations that are better than most people have the other 48-50 weeks a year they are not traveling. On vacation I don’t want to live like locals live in subpar accommodation but live better than I do at home. I don’t want to be out 16 hours a day but split the time touring and enjoying the hotel, the pool and amenities. It’s why I like business class so much. The ambiance of the cabin, the service and seat/suite color scheme and design make it a memorable experience.
@Debit
It is easy for Finland and other Nordic countries to have those things where there is a racially, ethnically, and culturally homogenous population of 5 million. What works for Swedes and Finns does not work for a country 3000 miles wide with 320 million people from too many different races, ethnic groups, cultures, religions and ideologies.
320 million?!?
Where do you get your “facts” from?
Great review and some great tips for good places to stay. Given your experience I think I’d rather be at the guest house than the Waldorf no matter how nice it is.
Thanks for sharing I very much enjoyed this post.
Great review, enjoyed it! Home stays/rentals usually are a last resort for me. I prefer the simplicity, security, and privacy of a hotel
Prices in Israel for food are high because of socialist planning by the government that sets the prices of commodities, issues tariffs on imported foods and offers no incentive for farmers to compete. Then on the commercial side the government has allowed massive trust buildup so that 5-6 companies control most of the food production in Israel. In general, many sectors of the Israeli economy are not set up as healthy regulated free market areas. Quite the opposite. Americans often forget how good they have it. The US auto market is the most competitive in the world. You probably can’t find cheaper prices for a car model outside the US and virtually every important model is for sale. Other goods are often similar.