Today marks Independence Day in Ukraine, a celebration of Ukraine’s independence from the Soviet Union in 1991. But the celebration takes on a whole new meaning this year as Ukraine also marks six months of war with Russia. And yet even in the thick of war, Ukrainians are finding peace and rest through travel.
A Travel Break In Ukraine In The Midst Of War
Many hold a misplaced conception that war means total war, as if there is fighting on every street and every corner. That has never been the case in Ukraine or just about any conflict over the last hundred years. Indeed, life goes on as normal in much of Ukraine, even with the existential threat of a massive invading force sometimes just miles away.
As Ukrainians reflect upon Independence Day and the doldrums of war, some soldiers are taking a well-earned break…and they don’t even have to go far. Michael Schwirtz of the New York Times recently wrote a heartwarming story about how the Tylihul Estuary has become a popular getaway for weary Ukrainian families.
The Tylihul Estuary is less than 50 miles from the front lines, but a whole different world, a world with the tranquil sounds of waves, soft sand, and oysters. It’s one of the few areas along the Black Sea coast that is not mined and has become a popular getaway area.
The oysters are a particular draw. Early on in the war, Ukrainian soldiers repelled Russian advances which threatened to take over this area, including the oyster farm of Andre Pigulevsky. In appreciation, Pigulevsky allows all soldiers and their families to enjoy unlimited oysters at no cost. He told Schwirtz:
“The purpose of this place is to have a few hours rest to feel like it is peacetime.”
It’s an amazing story of human resiliency. Trees are still being trimmed, windows still being washed, and coffee shops still serving espresso across Ukraine, even in areas under constant threat of Russian bombardment. Yet the battle beckons. Soldiers who might enjoy a few hours at the beach must return to their regiments and face the sort of extreme risk that many of us cannot even fathom.
CONCLUSION
Even in war, humans still need travel…we need vacation…we need rest. On this Independence Day in Ukraine, I pray that the stalemate would turn into victory and that Putin would be further humiliated and eventually be defeated for his unmerited and reckless invasion of a sovereign nation.
I read this article as well and the layers of history. especially of the oysters in this region, were incredible. These stories today are a reminder of the human element, and God knows we need that. So nice you posted this, Matthew, a poignant reminder that there is light even when all seems dark.
There is no difference between russian oligarchy and american oligarchy in that they want to control their respective countries, they just hate each other. If they got along better the western world wouldn’t pretend about saving democracy in ukraine.
Russian oligarchy is unsophisticated and brutish. They are not adept in controlling the country from behind the scenes so they don’t appear subtle when they do it. The everyday Russians like the everyday Americans support the oligarchy over their own interests, and in that they are pretty stupid.
My fellow UA flyers,
Does anyone have a recommendation for which Polaris lounge I should try? I have a connecting flight in London next month, and can go through any of the hubs. I have only tried the LAX and IAD ones so far. Would love to hear if anyone really recommends a certain one over the others.
Cheers!
Here’s how I rank them:
1. IAD
2. LAX
3. SFO
4. IAH
5. ORD
6. EWR
Totally subjective, but that’s my own assessment. The good news is that all are just fine. Even though IAD is my favorite PL, I would fly from LAX or SFO to maximize sleep time onboard.
Where does ORD fit in on that list? From reviews, it looks kind of dark with limited windows and natural light, which I don’t really like, but I still ultimately want to try them all.
I really like LAX because it never gets too full and I love how they used that weird shaped space to make it into a lounge, I think the middle circle area with the buffet and wine wall is really well done! Only down side to LAX is the buffet was pretty lame compared to other ones, but who needs the buffet when you have the dining room anyways.
Sorry, I accidentally deleted ORD from my original list. It’s my second-to-last choice. Less crowded than EWR, but I think the a la carte menu at EWR is slightly better.
Agree that the buffet is pathetic at LAX.
Hello Matt. Update on my 87 year old father-in-law’s vacation here for your and your reader’s amusement.
Convincing him to come here has been a challenge: He’s worried that his apartment will be destroyed and he won’t be there to defend it. I know how that sounds, but just saying that’s what he was saying. We induced him by telling him to come to visit Myrtle Beach with us and we’ll drive and visit friends and since the Odessa beach has been mined, he was up for it.
He can’t fly out of Ukraine so he needs to take an overnight train from Odessa to Przemysil and then from there, he can take the Polish train to Krakow to visit friends. Poland is (from what I know) generously allowing Ukrainians to travel free to-from East Poland to anywhere inside of Poland so he won’t need to buy a train ticket. He’s over 60 so there is no issue with him being of conscription age. (Przemysil itself is an interesting city).
I could use miles but for the price, $620 for a economy-light fare on Lufthansa KRK-IAD was hard to beat. Of course, he starts whining about missing out on a checked bag but 65 Euros one way is a lot. I may wind up having to fork out the money, we’ll see. I’m saving miles for any emergency trips my wife or father-in-law may need to make in the future or other relatives.
it will be a nice break for my wife and him from all this. Life is somewhat normal for him because for Ukrainians, a hectic life largely IS normal but things have always improved steadily. Thanks to everyone for their kindness during the conflict.
We may celebrate the Independence Day in DC either at Lincoln Memorial on Saturday or at Ukraine House this Friday.
Thank you for the update!
I have mixed feelings. Why are there millions of Ukrainian refugees entering the EU who get free everything (in Germany, any Ukrainian refugee gets paid the same as any German retiree that has worked his entire life) while other Ukrainians are eating oysters on vacation. Shouldn’t they first help their countrymen?
It is indeed a complicated issue.
In the case of Poland, I have heard that aside from some pocket money and a free train ticket, they’re on their own to earn a living and this has caused economic effects driving up the price of housing and wages down.
Poles regard Ukrainians as ethnic cousins so they are welcome similar to how Austrians might view helping German refugees.
Doubt all poles feel the same way towards their ‘ethnic cousins’; i once read an article online how poles are increasingly getting agitated and some even furious, at the number of Ukrainian refugees allowed into Poland and how these refugees have taken up many of the unskilled jobs.
So to say all poles are happy about welcoming their Ukrainian ethnic cousins is really a lie. And to be honest, who can blame the poles for being upset at being flooded by their ‘cousins’? I cant.
I am an oyster lover and that is how this article caught my attention. It was partly reprinted at my oyster farm that sends me monthly mail order, live oysters. Luckily they mentioned this area in Ukraine, and when researching that, I saw the full article.
Now, I am also a user of Airbnb for over 10 years, and had booked and paid for rooms in the Odessa Region to help local residents. (Not intending to actually visit there at this time)
Now I will do same with this new info and support the Tylihul region. But let it be known that I am developing a keen interest to actually go there after fighting is over.
I hope, I am not alone in that and that many others have risen to a level of interest in Ukraine not seen and felt before this terrible , unjust war (uhh, sorry about this, I misspoke: There are no just wars!)