On our second night in Zanzibar, we decided to eat where the locals eat. During the meal, a local took advantage of our trust, stealing money from us.
After a great dinner at the Park Hyatt Zanzibar the first night, we opted to venture out and try something a bit more authentic. Not far from the Park Hyatt is Forodhani Gardens, which I pictured by day in my photo tour of Stone Town.
>> Read More: Review: Park Hyatt Zanzibar
>> Read More: An Amazing Journey Through Stone Town in Zanzibar (Pictures)
At night, the area is transformed into a vibrant market where many locals come for their evening meals. I had noticed when walking from the ferry port to the hotel the previous evening that the food looked and smelled great.
We walked over (5 minutes) and decided upon döner kepab / shawarma. Not only did it look delicious, but the stand was swarming with locals.
There is poverty — both hidden and blatant — in Zanzibar, yet it is not the type of extreme poverty seen in neighboring countries in Africa or in the slums of Mumbai (to use two examples).
A man approached us and asked to “help”. He would “order” for us and told us to have a seat on a vacant bench nearby and he would bring us our food. We knew he just wanted a tip but humored him because was so persistent.
Afraid that I might get a $20 bill for a sandwich (like I once did for a street taco in Mexico City because I failed to negotiate a price beforehand), I asked the price when ordering. 2,000 Tanzanian Schillings (less than $1). The sandwich was so wonderful I ordered another.
Our “friend” insisted on bringing me the second sandwich too. He then asked for 6,000 Schillings to pay for the sandwiches. I handed him the money (exact amount) and watched him take it over to the shawarma stall.
He returned and asked about drinks. There was a stand selling drinks nearby and we both requested a bottle of water. He ran over, grabbed the water, and came back. He said that would be 4,000 schillings (about $2). Steep, but these were large bottles. I only had a 10,000 note, which I handed him. He said he would bring me the change right back.
But he did not. Instead, he disappeared.
After a few minutes we knew he wasn’t returning. Denny just laughed and let it roll right off, but I was furious. We were talking about less than $5 — but average annual income in Zanzibar is $250 and had he just asked, we may have even given him more than what amounted to $4.50.
Admittedly, I spent 10 minutes looking for him. But he was long gone. We paid for the water and returned to the Park Hyatt.
This sort of thing happens all over the world and of course I should have known the moment I handed over the 10,000 Schilling note I would never get any change back, but there is always something so off-putting about being stolen from, no matter how small the amount.
I hope the man was able to feed his family with the ~$4.50. Keep an eye out for people wanting to help in the Forodhani Gardens Sunset Market and pay for your food directly. If you want to help others, do so on your terms and not like me, on the terms of the beggar.
By principal = on principle?
Principle indeed. I think that sentence was confusing, so I just removed it!
I’ve been following One Mile at a Time for years and am now perplexed as to how, for all this time, I have somehow missed Live and Let’s Fly. I spent my early evening thoroughly enjoying reading these trip reports.
I’m presently at home in Jeddah (where I work), having a late supper with some colleagues. I just had to read this post to them. Of course, the boys were nearly in tears, they were laughing so hard. “So this guy just hands over a bill to some stranger in an African marketplace and expects him to actually return with change?!?”
And, of course, we were all laughing because we could all relate since we all have had similar experiences.
Years ago I bought a lovely prayer rug at a market in Dar. I’m really awful at bargaining and apparently grossly overpaid for my rug. As I was leaving another merchant went over and said to the rug seller “Allah must have sent him to you!”
These experiences are just apart of the joy of traveling!
Welcome to my blog, Imperator! I was in Jeddah in 2010–you can read that trip report here:
http://liveandletsfly.boardingarea.com/2013/03/19/introduction-a-journey-to-saudi-arabia-and-afghanistan/
Poverty is no excuse for stealing from other people, I would have been pissed too.
Furious over $4,50?
Puhleaze.
He waited on rich white man twice and took a minscule amount.
My anger had nothing to do with the amount and everything to do with the lack of respect. As mentioned, we truly would have been happy to help had he just asked. I don’t know anyone more generous than my friend Denny.
This entire post is absurd. “Admittedly, I spent 10 minutes looking for him.” Why the hell would you do that if not anger?
Will make note to ignore this blog…
Of course I was angry. In the moment. And I regret being angry about it. But the anger passed. Quickly. I’m still annoyed about it.
He didn’t say he wasn’t angry. He said his anger wasn’t due to the amount of money involved.
Also, you’re an idiot.
This is something I wouldn’t be angry over because of the way it was done. If they had literally robbed you at knife point or otherwise threaten you. Then yea, I’m mad,-scared and angry. But when it’s my own gullibility getting taken advantage of then I always let it roll of my back.
This stuff is better then Lucky whining about some cockroaches at the Havana airport. A welcome addition to BA.
In all my experiences getting scammed I wish it was only ever $5 lol
Sorry Matthew – as someone who’s been victimized by the Gringo Tax more than once, I couldn’t help but laugh while reading this. At least you got off with a levy of only $4.50…
“Looted”? “Lack of respect” Seriously? Your are the tragic embodiment of noxious privilege.
You spent at least 100x more than that amount, on your accommodations and fancy dinner at the Park Hyatt hotel. Were you even planning on tipping the fellow? Of course not, you were “humoring him” (your words). You are nauseating. No wonder you got kicked off the plane, recently.
And you tried to track this fellow down for ten minutes, really? You are such a tough guy. You should thank God for your pampered life, and that you didn’t end up stabbed, bleeding in a Stone Town alleyway. Eh, maybe the bloodletting would have drained some of the pretension out of you. Pathetic.
A bit off topic but really curious, how many times have you got sick eating local street vendor type food. Might be a fun topic to write about too.
You weren’t “looted,” you handed your money over to the fellow. You spent at least 100x more than that amount, on your accommodations and fancy dinner at the Park Hyatt hotel. Were you even planning on tipping the fellow? Of course not, you were “humoring him” (your words). Noxious privilege.
Heard you the first time…
White privilege at it’s finest here. I gotta stop browsing BA and clicking on this junk.
Why Matthew you choose to write this, there’s no good things Zanzibaries did to you don’t you know as you pay wrong from one mistake? Please be kind enough and advertising us a good behaviour thanks. Please understand me even it’s from uneducated one and poor English ok.
The negative comments makes me disgusted!!
People blaming him for being angry at 5$ loss yet they themselves would be more pissed if that happened to them over a 1$!!
Stop being hypocrites! Everyone would be angry for getting scammed no matter how much it was!
Dude I’m sorry, but you are an idiot. Anybody who has ever traveled to the 3rd world should know that you NEVER trust ANYONE with ANYTHING that you don’t want to lose! If that guy insisted on doing that for me I would tell him to go away for the following reasons: 1. his hands that are touching your food and money are very likely to be unwashed, 2. he will not leave you alone, and 3. he is quite likely a thief. The whole “I feel bad because my life is better” attitude is what they feed on, like sharks to blood in the water.
Be smart, don’t do business with anybody that approaches you on the street. Even with vendors, you have to be on your toes. You are a walking ATM to them, nothing more. Being “culturally sensitive” has nothing to do with dealing with scammers.
Well, this was timely: http://www.nomadicmatt.com/travel-blogs/avoid-travel-scams/