I spent my first day in Prague attending church, drinking coffee, walking around, and enjoying a delicious steak dinner.
Day One In Prague
My SAS flight from Copenhagen (CPH) landed at Václav Havel Airport in Prague (PRG) at 9:45 am and I had little time to dawdle.
I jumped in a Bolt (ridesharing) and headed over to the Linder Hotel Prague Castle, a Hyatt property, where I would spend my first night. This hotel is quite a bargain. I’ll review it in full soon.
I dropped off my bag and immediately ordered another Bolt to take me to church. I attended an 11:00 am service at St. Clement’s Anglican-Episcopal Church (in case you are in Prague this summer, it seems church is meeting at 3:15 pm in the afternoon).
The service was very nice and led by an Irishman named Jack Noonan, a lay leader (called a “Reader” in the Church of England). Since there was no priest at the service, there was no Eucharist.
The church membership was on the older side, but there were a couple of families with young children. The Czech Republic is considered to be one of the most atheistic, non-religious countries in the world. Forced Roman Catholicism during the Habsburg rule, anti-clericalism and positivist freethought during the late 19th century, and the communist era all have contributed to a worldview in which the majority reject organized religion or a belief in God.
That’s all the more striking in a city littered with some of the most beautiful churches and cathedrals in the world.
After church concluded, I began walking. The city was bustling on a Sunday at midday, including protests against Recep Tayyip Erdoğan, the dictator of Turkey, and many stopping for silent reflection in front of a wall dedicated to the Israelis hostages held by Hamas in the Gaza Strip.
I stopped for coffee at a place called Kaférna (I will do a separate coffee post on Prague) before walking back to the hotel (up Petřín Hill…).
Back at the hotel, I sat in the sauna for a while, then got some work done in my room.
My brother recommended a steakhouse called Čestr…he claimed it was like a fine steakhouse in LA, but half the price. I took a Bolt over there for an early dinner. His recommendation was spot on…so good I’ll do a separate review of this place. Great food and service.
I ate a lot more than a medium rare filet mignon, so I decided to walk all the way back to the hotel to burn some calories.
Along the way, I found a rubber duck shop…as tempting as it was, the only rubber ducks I collect are the ones given to me on Lufhansa!
It was a crisp but beautiful evening and after an early start to my day in Copenhagen, I was ready to go to bed.
Prague is always enchanting, though I personally don’t enjoy the cold winters so I try to only visit when the weather is better. I’ll keep the recommendations in mind for when I go back, which can never be too soon!
In other news, is there any chance you could do a summary of the Air Canada FFP changes? I’m not an Aeroplan member but, as a lot of people in the industry have a lot of respect for those running it, it’s useful to know what’s going on. I tried reading the flyertalk threads but they sort of assume you’re familiar with all their systems, elite qualification requirements and so on.
We went to the International Church of Prague while we were there – also a great church!
Long before the Hapsburg rule,Czech missionary martyrs spread Catholicism to Poland,who in turn gave it to the Lithuanians,last pagan nation in Europe.Ironically,like the east Germans,Czechs lost their religion under communist rule.Many Czech Americans however didn’t lose the faith,actress Kim Novak to name one.
So funny to see you taking the Bolt for every trip we usually walk or go by unbeatable public transport. Next time just try that, it costs nothing and also walking distances are just within half an hour, nothing to grab a taxi.
Also, there are numerous places to visit and eat in or drink in Prague, I would say that just a few places can be judged on the same level.
Also do not limit your visit just for Prague. Don’t forget about Česky Krumlov, Lipno, Telč, Liberec, České Švýcarsko, and many many more…!
Keep reading! 😉
I tried more places and did eat Czech food.
During my three days there, I did mostly walking…even up and down the hill to Prague Castle. I also took the bus back to airport. But as for this morning, I had to get to chruch quickly and had very little time to spare…public transport, according to Google, woudl ahve taken 3x as long.
Bethlehem Chapel, where Jan Hus preached in the 1500s, is definitely worth a visit for anyone interested in the history of the reformation. Incidentally, one of my favorite restaurants in Prague is the Villa Richter, next to the castle and part of the vineyard there. Incredible view over the city. Can be hard to get a reservation.
Strahov Monastery gives a far more informative insight of the tumultuous religious history in Czechia,predating Bethlehem chapel by a mere 400 years.One can tour the impressive complex,and mass is also celebrated.Na Zdar.
A good museum with a beautiful library, for sure, but I like to see where important figures and events actually were and took place when possible. I think it is also interesting to see the spot at Prague Castle where the defenestration of Prague actually occurred, considering how significant the event was.
Having been looted and burned by Hussites,Swedes,Nazis,Communists,over the run of it’s 900 year history,I’d say Strahov Monastery has seen it’s share of important people and events.More recently even ,Kim Novak( one of the last real movie stars)hosted an exhibition of her artwork there.Amazingly in a nation today predominately atheist,it is still an active monastery.The view from its grounds over Prague are as stunning today as I’m sure when it was founded.
Very nice…a slightly random one given the hymn book – what would you say your top five favourite hymns are?
I love the question!
1. O God Our Help In Ages Past
2. A Mighty Fortress Is Our God
3. Hark The Herald Angels Sing
4. O for a Thousand Tongues to Sing (Azmon over Lyngham, though I like both tunes)
5. Crown Him With Many Crowns
Excellent choices. It’s interesting since I’m a British Methodist, so quite a lot of the ones that come up at my Church are UK/Ireland-centric, but I too adore “Hark The Herald Angels Sing”. It’s far and away my favourite Christmas Carol, though in the UK we’d normally categorise Christmas carols and (obviously non-Christmas-related/referencing) hymns separately (including Christmas Hymns, I’d probably put “Hark The Herald Angels Sing” in second place on this list). I’d probably say my five are, in this order:
(1) “The Day Thou Gavest, Lord, Is Ended”
(2) “Be Thou My Vision”
(3) “Love Divine, All Loves Excelling”
(4) “Guide Me O, Thou Great Redeemer”
(5) “Praise My Soul, The King of Heaven”
Do you sing any of these at your church? As I say these might be heavily UK-centric. I’m also a massive fan of Graham Kendrick’s “Shine Jesus Shine”, but a lot of people in The Church really don’t like that one.
Also great choices. I sing 2-5 all the time. I quite like “The Day Thou Gavest, Lord, Is Ended” but we don’t sing it.
I understand separating out Eastertide and Advent hymns (and I love The First Nowell, When I Survey The Wondrous Cross, O Sacred Head Now Wounded, Thine Be The Glory, Jesus Christ Is Risen Today, Hail The Day That Sees Him Rise, and All Glory, Laud and Honor). If I continued my list, I’d add:
6. Jesus! What A Friend For Sinners
7. It Is Well With My Soul
8. How Firm A Foundation (Foundation tune)
9. Joyful, Joyful We Adore Thee
10. Holy, Holy, Holy
(we sing some contemporary songs as well…but I just don’t care for them as much, even though the Getty’s have created an impressive library of modern-day hymns).
I listen to hymns all day long while I work…
Another wonderful set of hymns there Matthew. I have to laugh at Tony’s reference to “Shine Jesus Shine” – that was a mainstay of the school I was at, also in the UK. Graham Kendrick did another one called “Meekness and Majesty” which we also used to sing a lot. Much as the traditional ones are excellent, I do think the newer ones are really good too. Have you come across either one of “Come People of The Risen King” or “Days of Elijah”? It goes to show that even the newer hymns can be really quite wonderful. I second that the separation between Christmas and non-Christmas is quite common in the UK. I get we’re in August, but some of my favourite Christmas ones are “O Come, O Come, Emmanuel”, “Once In Royal David’s City”, and “O Come All Ye Faithful” – surely you’ve come across these? I love “Hark! The Herald Angels Sing” too.
Great discussion about hymns but the theme remains that Europe still has a whole lot more diversity than the US does including about what Christianity is now and how it developed over time. I’m sure you realize, Matthew, that not a lot of people your age listen to hymns on a regular basis. Any particular performers/artists you like to sing hymns? and can we presume you go to a church w/ a traditional/hymn-based service? Does it also use a lot of spoken liturgy?
The Reformation played out differently in different countries of Europe and those differences can still be seen even w/ the overlay of the Soviet Union between the Reformation and now.
as with many countries that faced hostile situations, many Christians did leave Eastern Europe and that also had different impacts on where different countries in Europe are now WRT Christianity.
your pics are always great to see
My church in LA has traditional hymns, but no liturgy…something I miss and a primary reason I seek out Anglican churches when I travel.
Honestly, I like listening to hymns played by organ or piano while working…easier to focus that way. My father sang in the choir, but I’m not much of a singer, though I have made it a practice to memorize hymns (the words are often derived directly from Scripture anyway).
As for artists, I do like the Getty family, the Peterson family (a bit more folksy), and Audrey Assad. I also don’t mind the rendition of Great Is Thy Faithfulness sung by Carrie Underwood and Cece Winans. Whenever I’m on a flight, I never miss hymns from Andrea Bocelli. I’m a fan of Fernado Orega too.
I love the Choir of King’s College in Cambridge and Libera.
for those who love church music and organs, no place is better than Europe. While many churches have closed, there are still plenty open that have plenty of concerts, many of which are free.
I have stumbled upon many an organ concert while walking the streets of Europe’s cities. Our last visit to Copenhagen found us enjoying an unplanned performance of Brahms Requiem; best part is they wanted only cash which we had little of so the told us just to come in and enjoy – and that we did! Sometimes you get to sing the great European masterworks and sometimes you listen to others.
Is Erdogan really a dictator? Don’t get me wrong, I’m no fan, but he legitimately won the 2023 election, and it was free and competitive. His consolidation of power and clamp down on the media don’t seem that different that what we’re seeing in the United States. I think he wants to be a dictator, as does Trump, but I think we should be giving the Turkish people a little more credit for their democratic process.
I’d say the charges against Ekrem İmamoğlu are highly concerning…at least we haven’t seen Trump arrest his opponents (yet).
I agree that’s bad. While the mayor of Istanbul is very high profile… A handful of elected officials in the US have indeed been arrested for what is essentially their views on ICE. We’re really not so different.
Nice city. I went for a week for the first time, returning last week. The architecture is simply stunning. I did find the restaurants to be less than inspiring overall since they all seemed to have nearly the same menu. That’s great if you want carpaccio, pork knee, schnitzel, goulash, or ribs but otherwise it can be a bit of a letdown. The people are very friendly and the beer was good. Prices were higher than I’d though, being more like Germany than Krakow. I’d go back.
Yes, prices have caught up to many places in Western Europe (though I think that may be Prague in particular). Still, when I was there 20 years ago, it was so, so cheap. Not anymore.