The rain just doesn’t stop. It has been pouring nonstop since I arrived in Mumbai, often torrentially. The streets have been fairly resilient: I expected a lot of flooding and walking in ankle-deep water, but somehow the water is draining all right.
India Day 5: A Beautiful Morning In Mumbai Takes An Ugly Turn
I’m very glad I chose to sleep just a few blocks from church, because navigating this heavy rain, whether on foot or by car, is not easy. I was excited to visit St. Thomas Cathedral in Mumbai, the oldest church in the city. Construction began in 1676 and the church held its first service in 1718…the church is over 300 years old!
From my hotel, I navigated through the Fort Neighborhood, which felt a bit like being in London, to church for the 8:45 am service.












Upon arrival, I was warmly welcomed, offered a hymn book and order of service, and found a seat near the front.

The service was very nice, following the traditional Book of Common Prayer, including many interludes, and ending with a beautiful hymn called Sent Forth By God’s Blessings sung to the tune of The Ash Grove.







Coffee fellowship was held after church (the coffee was pre-mixed with sugar and milk so I politely passed) and I enjoyed a very nice conversation with the organist, who took me on a tour of sorts around the church, which is ironically a monument to British imperialism.








But history is complicated and should not be swept under the rug…I’m thankful the church has not dismantled these relics of a different time.
After church, it was time for my first (proper) cup of coffee. There was a Starbucks directly adjacent to the church (no thank you!) but I found a wonderful place called Nandan, which had to be the bougiest place I visited in my trip to India.

The café was filled with rich and well-dressed Indians, many with dogs, sipping expensive coffee and other drinks. I enjoyed a cortado and a cappuccino plus a very nice so-called “”Mediterranean-spiced eggs” with sourdough toast and a glass of fresh-squeed orange juice.







Feeling very sated, I walked back to my hotel to grab my bag…passing a Chicago deep-dish style pizzeria on the way (probably should have had that instead of Mexican food last night). I took an Uber over to the Four Seasons, where I would spend the remainder of my time in Mumbai.






The Four Seasons was only $207/night and I booked it via Scott & Thomas so it came with free breakfast, a room upgrade, late checkout, and a $100 stay credit.
I really liked the hotel…it was a refuge and so comfortable. I’ll certainly share a whole lot more in a separate review, but my corner room had great views of the city and Arabian Sea.




With heavy rain outside, I did a workout and enjoyed the steam room (the hotel and no sauna, which would be my only minor complaint).



It was around this time that disaster struck…Delhi Belly (or Bombay Belly?) hit me and let’s just say I spent most of the rest of the day close to the restroom.
It’s not like my stomach bug wiped out my appetite, but I was more careful in what I ate. I had a coffee in the afternoon (beautifully presented):

Then for dinner I ordered room service salmon, served with asparagus and Israeli couscous. That may look heavy, but it actually was light and really hit the spot.

Thankfully, I was able to go to sleep around 10:00 pm and not wake up during the night…




What a beautiful building, and liturgical church service,
So, the nonstop ‘rain’… it really was a foreboding real-like metaphor for, well, you know… *explosive diarrhea*
Beautiful church and coffee shop dog had a nice coat for the weather!
That church is amazing, thanks for sharing. Regardless of our life choices, churches are judgement free zones where we are all welcome.
You obviously didn’t grow up in the South
Yes, they are places where the judgment is free.
Man, that coffee shop really is bougie. Even the dogs have raincoats.
I love that you make Sunday worship a priority when traveling… something that tends to be more the Catholics, so it is nice to see the Reform taking up the mantle too!
+1
Parts of Mumbai do look like London, especially at night when traffic is light.
I hope that the hymn you sung was Take my Life and Let it Be. Incidentally, Sent Forth by God’s Blessing is often my dismissal.
Good old Delhi Belly, better known to Australian travellers as Bali Belly. Just think of it as spring cleaning, and be sure to consult a medical practitioner without delay if there’s any blood, or you’re also vomiting.
Great blog today – what a wonderful meaningful experience and gorgeous photography.
India must sound so exotic to your readers & for you – a white American dude from LA with German roots .
For us Asians, it’s the cesspool of Asia which we do not venture.
Taj Mahal be damned.
P/S I’m flying to LHR via BOM tmr 🙂
Who?
I’m so glad you were “ feeling very stated” 😉
I stopped reading after that.
I didn’t want to read about shit on the streets.
Oh, Ho. Yes, you are one.