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Home » Iraq » Part I: A Day Trip To Iraq
IraqLufthansaTrip Reports

Part I: A Day Trip To Iraq

Matthew Klint Posted onOctober 9, 2019November 14, 2023 5 Comments

a group of people boarding an airplane

As Turkish forces embark upon a massive offensive into Kurdish-controlled Northeast Syria, memories of my trip to Iraqi Kurdistan are in the front of my mind.


> Part I: A Day Trip To Iraq
> Part II: Exploring Erbil, The Capital Of Iraqi Kurdistan
> Part III: Heartfelt Conversations With Iraqi Kurds


It was 2011 and I was working in Frankfurt at the time for Star Alliance. I really took advantage of my time there and used most weekends to travel. On this crisp October weekend, I decided to fly to Iraq (as one does). At the time, flying to Baghdad would have been too dangerous. Instead, I decided to visit Erbil, in Kurdish-controlled northern Iraq. Even during the height of the Iraq War it was a place of relative calm. Kurds, whom Saddam Hussein had tried to genocide, were strongly in favor of the American invasion and the area provided a staging ground for many incursions south.

Lufthansa serves Erbil from Frankfurt and I no trouble securing a last-minute award seat. So without much thought, I woke up, headed to the airport, and boarded a flight to Iraq…

a black board with white text

a sign with an airport departures board

a group of people boarding an airplane

I won’t offer a full flight review, but a few notes on the flight. Business class breakfast really included an eclectic mix of dishes. There were scrambled eggs, hash browns, sausage, and beans. Fine, that was expected. There was cheese, meat, sliced cucumber, and bread. Also expected. But there was also chicken katsu, sushi, and pickled vegetables. So a Japanese lunch on a breakfast flight to Iraq…

food on a tray on a plane

Other passengers in business class appeared to be military contractors and business people. I doubt anyone else was going for sightseeing.

As we neared Erbil, the captain announced we would be doing “defensive maneuvers” as we landed out of an abundance of caution. Again, Erbil (at least up until 2014 when ISIS fighters moved into nearby Mosul) was a quiet part of Iraq. But that did not stop a sudden and steep bank followed by a rapid descent into EBL.

an airplane wing and wing of an airplane

an aerial view of a city

an aerial view of a city

an aerial view of a city

an aerial view of a city

a city with many buildings and roads

Iraqi Kurdistan is an autonomous region of Iraq and entrance was visa-free to Americans. I had only my duffel bag and headed right for passport control. An agent, who spoke good English, did not bat an eye when he saw my passport, especially when it was full of stamps and had two extensions. He probably thought I was just another contractor or CIA. Instead, he warmly welcomed me to Iraq.

a large screen in a building

a group of people in an airport

a group of people inside a building

I stepped outside the arrivals hall and there were no taxis and no touts. In fact, there were no cars and no people. A guard explained that I would need to walk about a quarter mile down the road to where all vehicles had to wait. For security reasons, cars cannot drive up to the airport.

a glass building with a sign on the front

I walked down the road, still not fully knowing what to expect. Soon enough, I came to a parking lot where several mene approached me, asking if I need a ride. I negotiated a price into town ($10) and hopped into a car.

a metal structure with a sign over it

a group of people standing in a parking lot

a group of people in a parking lot

Next up: My Day In Erbil

a traffic sign on a road

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About Author

Matthew Klint

Matthew is an avid traveler who calls Los Angeles home. Each year he travels more than 200,000 miles by air and has visited more than 135 countries. Working both in the aviation industry and as a travel consultant, Matthew has been featured in major media outlets around the world and uses his Live and Let's Fly blog to share the latest news in the airline industry, commentary on frequent flyer programs, and detailed reports of his worldwide travel.

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5 Comments

  1. Chris Carley Reply
    October 9, 2019 at 11:57 am

    Wow. That Dos Equis guy has nothing on you.

    You’re officially the most interesting man on Earth! 😉

    • Matthew Reply
      October 12, 2019 at 10:52 am

      🙂

  2. Jerry Reply
    October 9, 2019 at 1:49 pm

    I came in over land from Turkey in 2014, but flew out of EBL on OS. The takeoff and departure seemed normal. I would have really enjoyed the defensive maneuver on landing.

  3. Jordan Reply
    October 9, 2019 at 9:30 pm

    Really looking forward to these posts!

  4. Paolo Reply
    October 13, 2019 at 5:38 am

    I thought about going once but was dissuaded by the need for the ‘corkscrew’ landing ( which at the time of my proposed trip sounded rather worse than the ‘defensive manoeuvres’ outlined in your report). So I didn’t go: and now regret it. Maybe I’ll get another chance.

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