After spending as little time as possible in Cancún I have to admit that it’s kind of a nightmare right now, from prices to crowds, to traffic.
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A Very Brief Visit
As covered in a hotel review, I was recently (and unexpectedly) in Cancún for a short four-day trip over a weekend this month. My visit was not to stay in the Hotel Zone and I didn’t shop in the city. I mostly avoided the mess and sidestepped as much as I could, however, I understand better now why some recoil when mentioning Cancún.
Prices, Crowds, Traffic
First of all, the Mexican Peso is up considerably vs. the US dollar at least as to where it’s been in years past. When I was in Mexico less than two weeks ago the exchange rate was just a little over 16 MXP to $1 USD. Prior visits have been closer to 20 MXP to $1 so it already felt more expensive for many items but adding inflation and insatiable demand seems to have compounded the issue. A local Mexican restaurant in the airport (yes, airports are more expensive than the street) wanted more than $21 for a simple burrito. An order of chilaquiles topped $13 which is simply tortilla chips, salsa, shredded chicken, and sour cream. Johnny Rockets sold meals in the $20 range as well – and for the uninitiated, that’s a burger and fries. Starbucks was the closest to US prices at $5-7/drink.
I flew out on a Monday, and though it was not a holiday weekend, it makes sense that on a Monday the airport is a busy place. That said, I had a delay in my connecting flight and was looking to jump on an earlier one if I could. For this trip, I flew American Airlines and found five departing flights ahead of mine: Miami, Dallas, Chicago, Charlotte, and New York JFK. I was headed to Philadelphia but could have made connections from any of those alternatives. Departing within 30 minutes of each other from approximately the same area, every single flight was oversold. Not only were they oversold, but standby passengers were pushed to the next bank of departures at each gate.
I recognize that Cancún is a tourist destination popular throughout the US, Canada, the Americas, and Europe. But it’s been a long time since I stumbled past so many tourists who might be flying for the first time in a very long time and simply get lost walking to their gates. It wasn’t just casual travelers though, either. The lounge (Priority Pass) offered a $5 reservation days in advance. I should have paid that because it was overrun during my two-hour stay in the airport with a waitlist. Every restaurant was full or on a wait, and I could only find solace in an emptier part of the airport near the United gates in between flights at the opposite end of the terminal.
My ride to and from the marina should have taken about 20 minutes but traffic pushed it just over 40 minutes. There were cars everywhere, some were locals just trying to get to work or school, but many were taxis, car services, hotel shuttles, and Ubers. I sympathized with the Mexican people who have to deal with as much congestion as I witnessed at 2 pm on a Friday afternoon and 9:30 am on a Monday morning.
Traffic was so bad that I thought (and researched) whether helicopters were an option. My trip to Isla Mujeres involved a private boat and the 40 minutes I mentioned. Blade, which operates quick five-minute flights from New York City airports to Manhattan could have saved me 80 minutes, and other travelers even longer. It might consider expanding to Cancún for other destinations in the area that can be cumbersome to drive, but quickly and easily overcome overhead. There is a local service that offers quick five-minute flights to the airport but it runs $2,400 roundtrip for up to four passengers. At Blade pricing ($95-195) I might have been a customer in at least one direction, but at $2,400, I passed.
Alternatives Become More Popular
Playa Del Carmen has long been an alternative to the hotel zone, and Isla Mujeres is coming up with properties like Impression by Secrets, Zöetry, and a yet-to-be-named Marriott on the island. Tulum is a lengthy drive but offers more of a relaxed and eco-tourism vibe to counter the noise and action of Cancún.
It makes sense that visitors want the convenience of hundreds of flights from airports near to them but then want to move further afield for a varied experience. Tulum is adding its own airport, flights were announced just yesterday but those flights are domestic in nature and offered by AeroMexico, and discounter Viva Aerobus (Volaris has not scheduled or announced destinations yet.) Smaller equipment from American’s Miami base, JetBlue’s Fort Lauderdale, United in Houston, and Delta in Atlanta could make sense with travelers willing to pay a premium to get to their destination faster and easier. Time will tell if routes make sense from outside of Mexico.
Conclusion
I enjoyed my trip to Isla Mujeres but was reminded of the nightmare that Cancún proper is right now. From crowds to prices the place is packed and it’s more than I would opt to participate with any time in the near future. Yes, it’s peak season, yes, it’s a heavy tourist destination but I’ve been traveling all summer and haven’t seen anything quite like this. I never would have thought I’d see the day of a $21 burrito in Mexico (airport or not), especially when I have yet to see those prices throughout the US (New York City excluded.)
What do you think? Have you been to Cancún lately? How did your experience compare?
Been to Cancun once 18 years ago. Checked the box and no need to ever go again. In my opinion, Mexico overall is absolutely overrated, expensive, not safe and I am not a fan of their food so it is an easy pass.
“I been to Cancun once 18 years ago and that makes me an expert on the whole Mexico.” Lol. Literal cartoon characters.
Mexico is a country full of culture, traditions, food and people. People like you judge a country based on ignorance. You only visit a high rise hotel did not interact with their good people and their culture. You should experience the culture and people of the countries that you visit and then judge. By the way Im not mexican but have visited various cities.
I haven’t considered going to Cancun for at least 10 years. I went about 20 years ago for three spring breaks. One high school and two college spring breaks. I stayed at the Intercontinental Presidente.
While unquestionably busy back then — this was the peak of the MTV spring break-era — the hotel was an oasis away from the really, really bad things that happened back then during college spring break.
Cancun was obviously developed then but it wasn’t as bad as now. I went 10 years later, in 2012, and was shocked to see how even more American chains had setup. Starbucks, etc. Some of the staples of the MTV spring break-era had been replaced. It felt much more like Las Vegas than it did when I first went.
I won’t return. I have issues going anywhere in Mexico because of the crime and corruption. I certainly wouldn’t let my wife/girlfriend/daughter (if I had one) go without me. Mexico and Jamaica are very unsafe for solo female travelers.
@FNT Delta: I don’t disagree with your comments but unfortunately for solo females there are way too many dangerous places around the world. It is all about awareness and managing risk. I think most of South and Central America are warning areas for solo females. Now back to Mexico, the combination of corruption + drug cartels + party place is what makes it even more dangerous. It became a backyard for Americans wanting to drink, do drugs and party hard and locals are aware of that so they take advantage. Other countries, although also potentially dangerous, they don’t have that combination so a tourist can be a bit less targeted there.
Tulum has also been completely ruined in the last 5 years or so. Overdevelopment, total strain on resources, and a corrupt government focused purely on money at the cost of the environment. Cancun airport is also extremely corrupt – you’re forced to use an airport taxi at rip-off prices rather than Uber or other more affordable options.
I used to love the Yucatán and especially Tulum. Sadly it’s all been destroyed and is just a big money grabbing tourist trap now. In search of the next new place…
Agree. I started going to Tulum in 2000 for volunteer work and absolutely fell head over heels. Got married I. Akumal because Tulum was too undeveloped for me to communicate with anyone to do it there. Bought a small apartment. Went as much as I could. Every chance I got. And the construction never stopped. It slowed in 2008 for a couple years but picked back up at breakneck speed. I’ll never retire there like I hoped. It’s completely ruined. It’s chaos. I believed it would be an example of ecotourism for the world. What a fool I was…
Covid ruined Tulum. Lots of people set up shop there, Americans mostly. Now its just like any other overcrowded beach resport spot. ANd they’re developing like crazy still. Was there in april and properties going up all over the jungle.
Cancun is Mexicos Miami, both nasty places!
Let’s not talk about the elephant in the room, here which is that most American’s have a lack of paid leave. I used to work for the federal government, and got kudos of leave, so I was able to use frequent traveler awards by taking extra long weekends and avoiding the peak travel days. Now, I get limited (but still generous) PTO but only 7 paid holidays (vs 11 in federal service) and no effective sick leave, so I get two weeks less time to take vacation. Plus my wife gets even more limited leave so guess what? I went to Cancun over Christmas, and while the airfares (I did paid there and an award back) were reasonable, the hotels were not and yes the airport outbound was an absolute ***** zoo. Boy were we glad we had the nonstop flight because yup it was delayed and if you had a fear of catching germs the airport was not the place to be. My point is until we get more paid leave, those of us who are not digital nomads or don’t work for themselves will be mobbing Cancun and environs and paying a lot. We American’s get paid enough to run up those hotel and restaurant rates, but don’t have the leave to go further afield to places like Ecuador and Columbia or god forbid Asia because we’d have to spend precious extra paid time off getting there!
Cancun is not worth visiting. Everything is a tourist trap. I am an American and Mexican resident and have lived in Sonora for four years. I am a gringo but speak Spanish and recognize when I’m being ripped off here, which is everywhere. It’s so bad that I will save money by leaving and forgoing 5 days of my hotel reservation. I will not spend another peso in QR in my life. One example, go to buy smokes, the tienda selling smokes for 100$, I ask her isn’t that a lot for somkes, she says no it’s the same everywhere. I walk over to Oxxo, theyre 55$, a blatant lie. Next I buy my smokes, I buy a soft pack but the guy sells me a hard pack, which is like 20$ more, and doesnt say anything.
Unless you want to argue in Spanish a lot, or pay your way through all sorts of inconveniences, avoid Cancun.
I was in the Cancun area for 10 days at the end of the July, and early August (five days on Isla Mujeres and five days south of Playa del Carmen). I have spent a lot of time in Mexico, but still was shocked in the jump in prices in Pesos (even worse with factoring in the crappy exchange rate). Starting with golf cart rentals on Isla that less the 5 years ago were about 800MXN/day ($40) and now 1300MXN ($78). A huge jump. We just took taxis which saved a ton.
Similar was renting a beach chair. The rates a few years ago were 400 MXN (with 100 consumable) to 600 MXN (with 200 consumable). So the per person spend went from $20 to $35. Many price jumps were similar.
The price jumps were large, but the quality of the food seems to have dropped as well. So since we were in an AirBNB (also jumped to effective $300/day), we just bought groceries and cooked “at home”.
Down South was better, but shocked at how expensive buying ice cream on the 5th. Take Xcaret. Marvelous place, but $175/head, really pricey.
All this just leads me to believe that the Riviera Maya is pricing itself out of US tourism. My month in Europe earlier in the year cost less (but I do have friends I can stay with at times).
TL;DR – American man goes popular to beach destination for Americans over summer break, shocked to find crowds and American prices.
@RonMexico – *Above US prices.
Exactly, I am not expecting Bay Area pricing in Mexico which has much lower wages and taxes.
Um, Cancun is like Dubai, with cheap labor and a full price luxury. There are backpacker hotels by the bus station in the Centro, but without the security of the Zona Hotelera. Both Dubai The Palm Jumeirah and Cancun Zona Hotelera are completely artificial modern government-made constructs. Let’s compare apples to apples not oranges.
@BigTee: If being totally fair, Dubai is at a far higher level of opulence and a far lower labor cost basis than Cuncún; apples to apples, they are not.
We go to Cancun multiple times a year and always amazing but always stay at Hard Rock all inclusive super inexpensive and avoid all the tourist BS food and drinks are perfect
That place is like 400$ a night. If you think that is a deal, you’ll find plenty everywhere in the world.
I agree. Cancun. Is a boom town. I have stayed on the reef on Isla Mujeres: exclusive retreat for travelers avoiding helicopters/freeways. Zona Hotelera is safe, secure, and the only other place I stay. Funny when I stay in Cancun, the ads are for vacationing in Florida. Yeah, Cancun is full Florida price without the high crime.
Stayed in Cancun only first time in 1983. Then Akumal for decades but not recently. How was your immigration experience?
For places south of Cancun, don’t write off Cozumel/CZM airport. Small, easy in and out, and a short ride to the ferry to Playa Del Carmen. Bus stations and taxis are near the pier. I think the ferry goes about hourly. AA and UA serve CZM. DL abandoned it since covid.
I like Cozumel itself as it is laid back, reasonably priced, with clear water and great beaches on the east side. The only places that are mobbed are where the cruise guests go, and that’s only during the day anyhow.
Don’t know about Cozumel but you might want to check out Merida! Nice town and it seems rather safe. Beach is about an hour away ..
The whole area is simply outgrowing its own expansion plan. The Mexican government is building a rail system from Cancun going south through Tulum and some routes going west to Merida and she office. Also in the process of building another airport down here Tulum.
Had a layover in Cancun for a few days last winter and it’s easily the most expensive place in Mexico
Been to Cancun about 4-5 times, first time about 15 years ago, and I agree that prices have gone up, but I feel that’s expected for any super popular destination, including one frequented by American travelers so much. It definitely has gotten more crowded, especially Playa del Carmen, but it’s still a great place to visit.
My biggest beef with this article surprisingly is that $13 for chilaquiles is not crazy tbh — you’d easily find those prices at any restaurant in the US, maybe even more with today’s inflation. And the fact that you called it “simply tortilla chips, salsa, shredded chicken, and sour cream” is just sacrilegious. You could say the one at the airport restaurant was bland and I’d accept that. But for chilaquiles in general, the complexity of the salsa, which can be made in so many variations, brightens and brings together all the “simple” elements of the dish into a wonderful meal.
Did I mention I love chilaquiles?
@Chila Quile – We can go for chilaquiles any time you like, I ordered them at the resort I stayed in as well (https://liveandletsfly.com/review-impression-isla-mujeres-by-secrets-hyatt-inclusive/). I’m not saying that it’s not a wonderful dish, nor am I saying that the price isn’t fair for a US restaurant. For an airport takeaway, there’s about $1.10 in ingredients there and I stand by my claim that it’s overcharging for the dish in Mexico.
You’re certainly not getting chilaquiles anywhere in Austin for $13. Maybe in 2015.
This! Bravo.
We just came back 3 weeks ago from Cancun. Stayed in the Hotel Zone at Zilara and had no issues. It took us 5 min longer than usual due to road construction. Prices were similar to last year, of course we stay at an all inclusive. Beach and people were so friendly and the weather was amazing. Back to the author’s comments on a $20 burrito? we also saw the $20 burritos but that was at Guy Fieri’s Flavortown Kitchen, which is way overpriced for anything. That’s like getting a steak at Ruth’s Chris and griping that it is $40. You know what you are getting for the price. We ate at a local Mexican restaurant at the airport for less than $20 for both meals. Anyway, I would go back in a heartbeat for the nice people, great weather and awesome resorts.
@Jason Dyer – It was not at Guy Fieri, it was at “Guacamole ¡Andele!” It’s not at all like getting a $40 steak at Ruth’s Chris, it’s like paying $21 for not Chipotle.
Kyle, I did not appreciate much of anything in this article and most of comments so far presented in this discussion. Your critique of the situation in Cancun is built on high prices, low dollar vs. peso exchange rate and the mess at the airport. This point of view lacks real substance and reminds me of the old colonialist attitude which implies that ‘wherever I go people should appreciate me because I am an American’. Mexico is trying to cope with the crazy demand not only in Cancun but just about in any of its tourist destinations and I have been to many of those.
A real traveler tries to learn about the culture, history, traditions, art, customs, food, music, and the natural beauty of the place he or she visits. To better understand the place, one could also try to learn about the old problems and perhaps the new ones the area is facing as it tries to adapt in a modern world. You did not touch on any of these topics. So if your not seeking this, your just adding to the senseless crowds at the airports.
lol
And this is why no one takes your feckless, whiney millennial rants seriously. Try travelling a bit more first then come talk to us. Check that, don’t travel anymore. J don’t want you blocking my runway kid.
Pipe down, missy. I enjoy Kyle’s posts.
Also, if you’re going to pretend to have a French last name, at least get the spelling right: it’s -jeune, not -juene (and if it is, I guess your problem extends to generational illiteracy).
I’m more surprised Cancun is peak busy in mid August. Many kids back in school, it’s hurricane season, no snowbirds. Who are these people who go at the muggiest time of year there? So many other beach locations are fine this time of year vs say the winter when far fewer are.
@Greg – Agreed on it being surprisingly busy.
I just left Cancun August 24, stayed at Breathless Soul Resort and Spa, all inclusive. I had a fabulous time. The workers at the resort as well the tourists, food and entertainment were all great. I would go back again anytime. Food prices at the airport were high but if you want to eat, you gotta pay, otherwise don’t eat.
My wife and I traveled for our Anniversary in June of this year. Inflation hadn’t struck yet, but it was almost there. The best way to enjoy the whole experience is to get the all inclusive deal. It takes a load off the wallet. Overall, we had a wonderful week stay in The Ocean Spa Hotel and most definitely enjoyed the amenities. Food was great and the weather was beautiful!
Where did you stay?
https://liveandletsfly.com/review-impression-isla-mujeres-by-secrets-hyatt-inclusive/
Where did you stay in Marina?
@Joe: I didn’t stay at the marina. I took a catamaran to this resort: https://liveandletsfly.com/review-impression-isla-mujeres-by-secrets-hyatt-inclusive/
Sad but true. Their airport is a horrible mess. One way there and one way out. This airport and highway has become to small since it was built like 50 yrs ago! The taxi mob will also not allow Uber in most areas especially airport, hotel zone and most hotels downtown. The timeshare and scammers are everywhere in airport trying to sell you. This includes the hotel staff. Unless you are staying at resort the whole time then expect traffic everywhere. Most families like to rent a car but also getting pricey and need to be comfortable driving there. I personally like to take transportation and tour shuttles while I’m there to meet new people and see everything the areas have to offer.
I thought a spoiled woman wrote this. Turns out it was a “man”. “Whah I went on vacation. Whah I spent a reasonable amount on a meal at the airport. Whah I had traffic because other people were there during the busy season.” Lol what a sad excuse for a human
Kyle Stewart. Your blog and article is full of prejudice. Another individual that does not inmerse in the culture and good people of the countries. Your opinions are mediocre showingvon ly the side that wants to win readers with bait names. A lot ofcairports in the US have issues with expensive food, traffic etc.. And compare NYC services with Cancun.. lol
@Gerardo – Welcome to the blog and thank you for your first comment. I’d invite you to search through the more than 11,000 blog posts of which 1,100 I’ve contributed before making your assertions that we don’t immerse ourselves in the country, or its people.
Gerardo – or actually, can I call you Tommy? – Tommy, he wasn’t going to Italy. Once you’ve seen one 5’1 inca gangster, you’ve seen them all.
“But the food!” as Americans love to exclaim. Oh, you the brown slop called “mole”? At least it’s aptly named, a misgrowth on the world cuisine. Barf.
don’t forget…
every CULTure…is a CULT….
missed that one, eh?
I live in Cancun, between centro & the airport, & yes, the traffic is horrible. The federal government is in the process of repaving the highway to the airport & there is road construction downtown as well which is causing the traffic problems. Also included in their plan is a bridge to the hotel zone. Have prices gone up, yes they have, partly for the exchange rate, which is a sign of good govt financial policy (or bad policies in other countries) not our fault. Also the minimum wage has doubled in the last 5 years, affecting hotel & restaurant costs. Gas costs close to $6 usd a gallon in Cancun, almost all products are trucked in from the center of Mexico.
As far as safety, as long as you aren’t trying to buy drugs u shouldn’t have any problem. I was just in Manhatten, didn’t feel very safe there after 11pm. & every night they were offering drugs on the street.
@David – Thanks for confirming some of these details and expanding on causality. It’s nice to know that while there’s a reason behind some of it, it is certainly the case.
This is a whiny article about traffic and busy airports. lmao. You need a real nightmare for perspective.
How is this for a story, I wont call it a horror story bc I expect as much now. I got to Cancun on Saturday, tried to check in to a prepaid hotel and they say they have no reservation. Contact the owner and no response for 4 hours. Check in was for 2, I arrived at 230. At 630 the manager finally called me back and said sorry and we’re sending your reservation to administration. I wait another hour and nothing. Keep in mind I’m waiting outside with no food, water, or facilities. Eventually I just walk past the guards and crash in the hotel for the night. My friend arrives but cannot enter due to no reservation and since it was late they could not just walk past the guards as I managed, so they go home. Next day I sneak out of the hotel and book another hotel after filing a dispute with my credit card company. I called United to move my flight up and go home early but the next hotel seems nice so I decide to see how it goes a couple days. I could go on but the second hotel was no better and I ended up leaving Cancun the next day. I havent even begun to speak about the other problems with Cancun I had outside of hotels.
Guess I’m kind of thankful for places like Cancun, now that I think about. It sucks in many tourists…which just means
less in other places — the kind of places I tend to go these days! No, I’m not telling nor mentioning any places.
One place on the MX coast a few years ago, now that I think about it — a wholly different experience then Cancun – but still
all the creature comforts/modern hotels – even a few big chains – points – yes. Chartered my own boat (15 feet?)
with captain to tour the coast for a whole day – $250 USD? Something like that.
Looking at a STATISTA chart — Number of *international* tourist arrivals to hotels in Cancún, Mexico from 2010 to 2020 [Best I can find at the moment]
2010 – 2.2 million
2019 – 6 million
Crazy growth like many tourist cities. Like many cities – period, tourist or not. Reminds me of Bali growth.
I visited Cancun, Playa del Carmen, & Tulum in 2006 (Yes, Tulum in 2006!) and Bali in 2003.
While already popular — now they are through the roof so to speak.
Haven’t returned to these places since, though I considered Cancun-area in the past 1-2 years, and may yet go.
More like the launch pad to visit further inland. (Merida, and more obscure cenotes).
Went to Chichen-Itza in 2006 — already popular then…and some cenotes, but on a tour….would rent car this time.
NASA Earth Observatory – How Cancún Grew into a Major Resort — has a nice sat image. 1985 vs 2019.
Unhidden Gem – Dissecting the Transformation of Tulum – by Mitchell Friedman another interesting article.
Cancun has theost beautiful beaches ,!!
Mexico is booming now ..be happy about that ! The explosion of tourists makes it difficult to keep up with . I continue to look forward to my annual 4 month nrhs there . Gringos , get with it …learn about Mexico and it’s awesome people !!
Lived in Playa Del Carmen for a year. I agree with everything written.
The weather is great ?? If you visit for a week maybe. It’s miserable, hot, muggy, humid to the point of sweating doing normal tasks. Everything gets moist and nasty. It rains all the time.
The prices are insane, even in American standard. It’s not a cheap place at all !
Traffic is outrageous. The amount of hipsters and Tuluminati are nauseating. And the mosquitos and bugs, don’t get me started.
I got dengue virus and almost died. That was the last straw for me. I packed my stuff and left. Didn’t want to risk getting dengue again for a second time.
I love México, the people, the culture, but will never come anywhere near Quintana Roo again.