While in Munich for work, a friend suggested we have a quick getaway for my birthday. Never one to turn down a trip, I decided to look for a new hotel to experience my special day. One property has intrigued me lately as a fan of COMO Hotels: The Alpina Dolomites in Italy, which fit the bill perfectly.
COMO Alpina Dolomites Review
Just four hours away from Munich by car, this gorgeous area of Tirol sits in the Alpe di Suisi area inside the Val Gardena playground of winter and summer activities. The hotel had been privately owned but was recently taken over by my beloved COMO Hotels, owned by the Singapore hotelier Christina Ong.
This made for a perfect weekend birthday getaway which I booked via LHW for points and perks that are otherwise much less when booking through Comoclub. This is one of only two or three COMO Hotels that are part of LHW so it’s a rare opportunity to get practical points accrued given that Comoclub, COMO’s points program, currently only offers rather odd items for redemptions (do I need designer socks for 15K points?) and no hotel free nights at COMO properties. Our rate through LHW was €765 for a larger Terrace room at 50m in size and boasting a stunning terrace with panoramic views of the mountains and valley. This included breakfast and a welcome gift.
After crossing into Italy, just a few kilometers from Austria, the drive up the steep and winding road to the village made for a beautiful welcome. The hotel sits in the center of the resort town that, while still beautiful in summer, is probably even more so in winter. Like every Tirol village, cows were plentiful, and the locals went about their lives in existence alongside the tens of thousands of skiers and hikers who come here each year.
The COMO is far from traditional. In fact, the building surprises you with its striking modern curves and architecture as you pull up to the entrance. This is clearly not your parent’s idea of Tirol.
Upon pulling up to the entrance two uniformed staff waited and assisted with our bags, also taking the car into the underground lot (which I imagine is quite nice in winter for car storage). We were whisked inside where the desk staff provided us with the signature COMO welcome of a refreshing towel and the choice of either champagne or the much-loved COMO ginger tea, which I always prefer iced.
Soon after the front desk personnel escorted us to our room, 323, allowing for a small explanation of the three restaurants and offerings of Spa and services. I was struck that the public areas were not in the usual manner of COMO Hotels in that they were a bit sleeker and more urban. Trending a bit towards their Metropolitan hotels, sure, but those are in cities like London and Singapore and not resort properties. The hallways and elevators reminded me more of what you would find at a Mercure Hotel in Frankfurt and were not so appealing.
The rooms on the other hand were truly spectacular. Much of that created by expansive glass doors that look out to one of the most beautiful views in Europe. Furnishings were modern but comfortable and decorated in palettes that were a bit colorful for COMO (they tend usually towards lighter earth tones) but worked well in the modern building.
An extra touch was not only a bottle of champagne as an LHW welcome gift, but my friend had called ahead to inform them it was my birthday, and a gorgeous bouquet of flowers and chocolates awaited. Such a nice touch!
While no LHW upgrades were available as the hotel was quite full, the room was more than adequate in size for two including an expansive bathroom and a well-furnished terrace.
Standard amenities were provided including coffee maker, tea kettle, safe, and a nicely stocked mini bar. The bathroom, always a highlight of COMO, offered their signature Elevate products that lets you instantly know you are at COMO no matter where in the world. Including of course my favorite bath salts of any hotel brand.
Plugs and USB outlets were plentiful and well-placed. Lights were controlled by a master switch but at times could be a bit confusing when wanting more mood or sectional lights on or off. Bathrobes were comfortable and in two sizes, along with slippers, and perfect for going to the Spa or pool.
Our stay would be over three nights, so we opted for the first day in the beautiful COMO Shambala Spa for treatments and to enjoy the facilities. Whilst for the second day we would choose an outdoor activity to enjoy the beautiful countryside.
The Spa is easily worth spending some hours – or in our case most of the day. While it may not be as impressive as, say, the Sacher Alpin Tirol in Seefeld, it would still be considered one of the best Wellness centers in the region.
A large indoor/outdoor pool with ample seating was at the center as you entered the reception area. Alongside this were multiple sauna rooms, including even a cold option. As well, twice a day when we were there a unique option was a complimentary 30-minute sauna in which staff utilize a special infusion that changes each day. It was heavenly and for one of these sessions we were also offered a unique scrub to balance the aroma.
As is often with COMO, their signature Yoga classes are offered each day at different times and were complimentary. Additional classes such as stretching, and mindfulness were also encouraged and inclusive. The instruction and quality of all were excellent.
The fitness center, while not large, was more than adequate for a location where most fitness, especially at this altitude, will be from hiking, skiing, or biking the region.
I experienced three hours of treatments including facial, massage, and manicure. All were of high standard and on par with any world-class spa.
Near to the Spa, the COMO also offers a Kids Club which is well-staffed and stocked for parents whose children may not be at the age of enjoying the activities of the region. It included an outdoor play area and seemed more than adequate for a non-beach resort.
On the second day we decided to explore the area on rented e-bikes available directly from the hotel at a full day rate of €60 each. This proved to be a wonderful experience, and most will be grateful for the extra help on some of the very steep mountain roads. Humorously, my friend had never been on an e-bike before and only after slowly trudging up numerous passes would he discover how to properly use it. Oh, the look on his face when he did!
Like most COMO locations the food is where the brand really shines. Christina Ong is a Singapore foodie like non other and has even written her own extensive cookbook. No matter where you are in the world at COMO you can experience not only their specialized dining to that region but her curated COMO Shambala menu that balances healthy ingredients in beautifully arranged and tasty dishes, often with an Asian slant.
Since we were there for three nights, we chose to try each of the three restaurants, with the Italian Venetian style restaurant reserved for my birthday on the second night.
After the first evening check-in we went to the bar and enjoyed an aperitif on the beautiful and large bar terrace. The Negroni was expertly made and the setting, along with little bites provided, made for a gorgeous start to our first evening. Imagine my surprise as well when Christina Ong, the owner of COMO herself, walked by and said hello. She was visiting from Singapore with her family and enjoying her new hotel. She was quite lovely and very gracious stopping to greet us.
The Bar also has ample seating indoors and a unique enclosed cigar bar and library in the rear which I assume in winter would be welcome for those who smoke.
That first dinner was in the restaurant Sassolungo, which was both regional while also offering more international selections, including some Asian centric dishes on the COMO Shambala menu. It is for hotel guests only and offers a wide range of dishes that would appeal to a large and differing group or family. The menu was relaxed but refined and at tables perfectly placed to maximize the views outside.
That night I opted for a delicious soup and a perfectly prepared grilled Salmon, while my friend thoroughly loved the thinly sliced veal starter and a second course of the Tagliatelle with Venison ragout. There was also an anti-pasta bar with a beautiful selection to choose from.
This same restaurant also serves as the breakfast room in the morning. With it the daytime warmer temperatures also allowed the terrace to be opened to enjoy this outside. The breakfast is the usual of high-end European hotels in offering meats, cheeses, breads, and fruits that were nicely arranged alongside either freshly made juices of the day or custom-made creations to your taste. The cooked menu items were varied and offered a great selection for everyone. Of course, being Italy, the coffee was exceptional and perfectly prepared.
The next evening on my birthday we ate at the signature restaurant, Trattoria Dell’Alpe. Boasting a menu of Veneto regional dishes, it offers around a dozen tables in a small pair of rooms adjoining Sassolungo. It actually seemed an odd afterthought, a restaurant within a restaurant, if you will. More so, being in this side room, it may have felt cozy, but the loss of the beautiful views from Sassolungo would make me question dining here the next time.
The service and food was exceptional. The staff went out of their way to make it a lovely evening despite several children dining there, including babies. It always surprises me, and I say this as a mother, why parents with babies and toddlers opt for the cozy upscale restaurant at resorts when other perfectly wonderful venues were also available.
We decided to share the whole grilled Branzino which was beautifully presented and served tableside. As well alongside potatoe puree and artichoke. Really, it was perfectly prepared and a wonderful dish. For dessert, they brought me a beautiful custom cake that focused on chocolate (my deep love) and adorned with candles. As well along with a card and a COMO water bottle as a small gift. Aside from the children in such a small area it made for a lovely birthday evening.
Our last night we opted to eat in the casual Alpina Chalet and Bar. This is a separate building adjoining the hotel and was designed more for après-ski. It can be reached from the hotel though via a tunnel walkway directly to the outside entrance which would be quite handy in winter.
The specialties of this venue focused on Neapolitan style pizza along with an interesting menu of South American style grilled meats. It was a very cozy and well thought out restaurant that we both loved. We were tired from the day and wanted something simple so shared a salad and a pizza with anchovies. Both were delicious though the pizza seemed a bit thick for being termed Neapolitan. We watched the meats coming out to other tables and all looked wonderful. If there for skiing this would be my main choice of dining on most days.
On this last night we were offered the most spectacular electrical storm I have ever seen in Europe. As huge lightning struck around the property and over the mountains the entire sky was lit up for over two hours. At one point the hotel even lost power for 10 minutes. We braved the terrace to watch it as it strangely barely rained. It proved to be a dramatic ending to a beautiful stay at COMO Alpinas Dolomites.
CONCLUSION
I cannot recommend this hotel enough for a quick getaway over the summer months or a longer stay for skiing in winter. Being a reasonable drive from many cities in Germany, Switzerland, and Austria it is accessible while also feeling a world away. While not a classic points hotel, COMO has done a remarkable job in presenting a mountain resort that gives a modern twist to Tirol while also leaning in slightly to its Asian roots.
Did you eat the entire pizza crust ?
Alert, I do not eat the crust ever. But my friend did and called it, “perfect.”
Do they have running water and indoor plumbing in this part of Italy?
Great review, Elena. Glad to see you start contributing again. I’m a little ashamed to admit that I had never heard of the COMO brand until I read this article. I suspect it’s out of my price range, but this property looks great. Forgive me for saying this, but it kind of reminded me of ROOMERS Baden Baden.
Hi Jerry, Como can be pricey, agreed! With that I would still call them far more affordable and approachable than, say, Four Seasons or Rosewood. I have not looked but can imagine in April, early May or October there may be even better shoulder season rates available which, for hiking, would be a lovely time.
Oh, I have wanted to try Roomers in Baden Baden. Funny you mention that!
Great review, thanks. Looks like I’ll have to make a stop next time I’m in the area.