My five days in Bhutan were magical…and far too short. Bhutan was one of the most delightfully unexpected and beautiful countries I have ever visited.
I Love Bhutan, A Beautiful Country In (Almost) Every Way
From the moment I stepped off the plane, I knew something was different about this place…and in a good way. Unlike in Khatmandu, the air in Paro was fresh and cool.
The airport terminal was beautifully decorated–by far the most unique airport I have ever seen.
The drive to Thimphu was gorgeous…slow (speed limits are 50 km/hour)…but gorgeous.
I split my time at three hotel properties. The first two nights I spent at the Le Meriden Thimphu, a solid Marriott-affiliated property in the heart of the capital city.
Those first couple of days were spent visiting the Dechencholing Palace and the Changangkha Lhakhang Temple, but also just enjoying great coffee in town and enjoying the cool spring weather.
I then spent a relaxing 24 hours at the Six Senses Thimphu, perhaps the nicest hotel property I have ever stayed in. The hotel sits high on a mount overlooking the valley below and the rooms, pool, spa, and dining area are very beautiful.
I had to fit in Hyatt somewhere and spent the last two nights at the Spirit Sanctuary in Paro. While no Six Senses, there was much I liked about this hotel.
The highlight of my time in Bhutan was the climb up to Paro Taktsang, better known as Tiger’s Nest. This was completed on my last full day and really was exhilarating and one of those unique moments that will likely remain one of my all-time most memorable travel experiences.
The people of Bhutan were lovely: they actually welcome tourists (since the high fees to travel in Bhutan sustain their health care and education systems) and were friendly, engaging, and genuine. It was thrilling simply to have many extended conversations with our guide.
I will have much, more to say in my detailed trip report (coming up after I write up my shorter summer trip), but I liked just about everything about Bhutan (beyond the high daily sustainable development fee of $200).
Despite the high cost of entry, this is a place I would want to return to over and over again…and intend to. It is a treasure and I applaud what this country has accomplished by limiting tourism rather than encouraging it.
Once on the ground in Bhutan, can one move around freely? If you were so inclined, could you shop and dine and use local transport and go wherever you wanted, or is your movement somewhat restricted?
I’ve done a number of trips there, alas the last being in 2010. Movements around at night etc were never regulated or restricted. It’s primarily in relation to transport and sites. In reality though, only the few places with any sort of infrastructure like Thimpu would there be anything else to do outside treks, experiences, etc. The major properties (other than the few inside the city) are all pretty isolated. But when in Thimpu I spent many days wandering alone in the markets, going to local bars and restaurants alone, and strolling around (it doesn’t take long, lol).
Understanding your question better, let me say that you are not able to roam the country freely without hired transport/guides and bookings at properties. But you can wander around from them. The reality though is that everything is packaged in theory, yet you can wander otherwise where there are places to see if just walking around. But if needing transport to a site you will need to utilize the hotels system or your guiding service.
Both of your comments were interesting and helpful. It sounds like on a 2nt stay in Thimpu you could basically do whatever you wanted in the city.
I would add that you can ask your driver and guide to take you wherever you’d like to go. It’s hard to imagine it until you’re there and there’s two guys and an SUV meeting you at the airport waiting for instructions. It’s like having a driver and a docent at your disposal. Our guide even walked up to the Tiger’s Nest with us. Can’t even imagine how many times he had done that.
Bhutan really stays with you after you leave. I would go back in a heartbeat and willingly pay double for the experience.
Jerry, you can move freely within cities – but you cannot rent a car and there is no practical way to travel from city to city without your guide (I suppose you can by taxi). Essentially, my guide and driver were standing by the entire journey. Will detail this fully in report.
Absolutely amazing. Can’t wait to hear the details. I find very interesting the high daily fee they charge to visit the country. Probably needs more study to find pros and cons but maybe a solution to places like Venice that is in danger due to too many tourists.
I’d love to go back. Back in the days we were there the daily fee included accommodation, meals, transport, entrance fees and guide so it wasn’t such a bad deal. Among other things we stayed one night at the guide’s birth home in the mountains and visited some temples that barely saw any foreigners.
I agree! It’s one of my top three countries on Earth. Such wonderful people and such a peaceful experience. Both Le Meridian hotels in Bhutan are awesome and a great deal with points. Next time you go, eat at ZaSa in Thimphu. The food and vibe is amazing!
Was there years ago. Stayed at the Amankora; at their lodges in Thimphu, Paro and Gangtay. Everything including the ‘visas’. were organised by the hotel. Your own 4×4, driver and guide with picnics; were also provided by the hotel , to make the lodge to lodge transfers. Fabulous, intriguing country. However, got a bit over-‘D’Zong’-ed. (FYI:- You can have yourself photographed and printed onto stamps . These can then be legally used… a Bhutanese stamps !)
How much did the author get paid for this article?
Barely mentioning the fact that you have to pay $200/day for a visa + the fact that you can’t independently travel.
I wasn’t paid anything. It was a whole new experience for me and better than I could have ever imagined. It may not be the country I’d want to do business in, but it certainly is the kind of country I greatly enjoyed traveling to.
I took a two-day hike to Tiger’s Nest (I took the long, more picturesque way) where I spent a night a night at a camp with maybe 10 other people total and had the best soup of my life! Amazing experience, glad you got to see it, Matthew!
Very cool. Maybe I do this next time.
I’m interested in hearing your perspective on the fees associated with this. When considering the distribution of tourism’s benefits throughout the local economy, I’m uncertain whether the high fees themselves effectively enhance a more efficient trickling-down effect. To some extent, this is akin to suggesting that the government is more adept at allocating funds than free enterprises. In my situation, the prospect of an $800 daily tax for a group of four is quite substantial a deterrent. Without it, we could have gone, directing our expenditures directly towards local businesses. Is one approach better than the other?
Setting aside ideological viewpoints, with regards to curbing over-tourism, it will certainly keep out those who cannot afford it. Moreover, I would expect that the exclusivity to foster a sense of tranquility for all parties involved. I would greatly appreciate your insights, especially since you have now experienced it firsthand. Thank you in advance.
Well, if anything, it certainly keeps it from becoming Nepal. Which it would already be at this point if not for the balance of valuing the land and principles set forth by the King. It is not outrageously expensive unless you choose to stay at Aman etc. You are perfectly able to spend two weeks there at rates that the average family pays for a junk resort to a junk beach. You may be in tents some nights, but that’s part of the experience.
Bhutan has opportunities for most to experience that want to. What they don’t want are 100.00 backpackers turning it into Kathmandu and the rest of Nepal. With that, there are still many opportunities for those who can’t afford Aman etc.
It[s a very small country, I think the population is under a million total. So keeping a lid on tourism allows them to retain their culture. Also Bhutan is the only (or maybe one of a few) countries that is carbon negative. Their constitution has enshrined how much of the country must be forested. Smoking is banned as are plastic bags.
Smoking is not “banned” as may be the myth. There are restrictions, yes, but it’s currently standing at around 30% of the population are using tobacco products. In fact when an even stricter law was enacted in 2012 the rates of smoking actually increased…so the laws were relaxed a bit. The reality is that if you want to smoke in Bhutan you can. And there are plenty of black market cigarettes being sold, usually driven up from India. I have Bhutanese friends who do the drive down to India regularly to buy cartons of cigarettes. I have not been since 2010 but was regularly there for a five year period on a project- and at that time there was a “ban” when in fact every bar in Thimphu the ashtrays would come out in the evening. They also very much love and easily obtain weed pretty much anywhere. No, they are not blatantly smoking on the streets…but they are very much smoking.
Nice! Thanks for sharing your experience. How much was your ticket from Kathmandu to Bhutan? How does the visa process work?
Just saying, it’s the same country that kicked out millions of ethnic minorities from its own country in 90s, majority of whom have been resettled in West or are still living in refugee camps in neighboring Nepal.
It’s a concerning issue indeed.
Doremifica, “kicked out millions”, really?! why stop there? you might as well say kicked out hundreds of millions or even billions if you have no absolutely scruples about lying and exaggerating to make your point.
Anyway, this was a very complicated problem where a small country with less than million people was faced illegal migration from neighboring countries /regions with forty , a thousand times more peoples.
I don’t expect you to understand, or know any of the details of the issue or what led but consider this but let’s consider this .
Today, in the US, the most powerful country illegal immigration and demographic change are issue that cause huge anxiety huge portion of the people. It is why Trump was elected. You think you could show some understanding to small country with less than a million people for not wanting to be inundated people migrating in illegally and attempting to subvert the local culture/
Thanks Mr .Mettews for the great article
Thank you for Sharing the story of one of the coolest Destination
Do visit next time too
Cool article! It will definitely help the country to remain carbon negative and in providing its people free education and health care services.
You write about Bhutan a lot. Do you have a financial arrangement with Bhutan? Are you compensated for promoting Bhutan?
A lot? You mean twice?
No, I have no financial relationship. Can you introduce me to someone who can give me one?
Posting your trip report any time soon? We were looking at visiting Bhutan and staying 5-6 days at the Spirit Sanctuary. Likely just staying there and doing day trips. Do you think that is a good amount of time or is it better to split it up between different hotels/cities? There are very few reviews of the hotel.
Yes, after the next one.