As we approach the one-year anniversary of the war in Ukraine, I decided the time was right to make a trip to the capital city of Kyiv. I want to see for myself how the Ukrainians are handling Russian aggression and what life is like 12 months after the invasion.
My 2023 Ukraine Trip – I’m Going to Kyiv!
I was somewhat surprised to see that the Hyatt Regency in Kyiv, a hotel I have not stayed in for over a decade, remains in operation. While Kyiv has been largely spared after the initial weeks of the war due to its strategic air defenses, I cannot imagine there’s all that much international business or tourism right now in Ukraine. But I was elated to see that the hotel is still open for business and will serve as a base for my trip.
It is not clear what I will find and I do not come with a detailed agenda, though I do intend to travel south to buy a piece of art I have been eying for quite some time. I’ve been in contact with the seller and we’ve arranged a meeting in a small village about two hours southwest of Ukraine. I’m also meeting with some friends who have lived in Ukraine since the Soviet days. I will not be traveling to the eastern region or to Odessa.
By the way, I don’t know how I am going to get to Ukraine. I’ve booked a ticket to Warsaw, Poland and from there I am going to try to purchase a same-day train ticket. Trains appear to be sold out, but if I cannot secure a seat, I am confident I can find space on a bus or shared car.
Yes, I want to see for myself how Ukrainians are dealing with the constant threat of invasion and occupation. Yes, I want to see the nuances of war and see how life on the ground compares to how it is being reported in the media. And yes, I want to have an adventure.
Next week, I’m going to bring you about as close a live-blogging experience as you will ever get on Live and Let’s Fly. Often I do teasers right after my flights and then do not publish the full trip report until months later. Not this time. I’m going to interrupt my Middle East trip report and try my best to fully live-blog this trip (with a slight delay for my own safety). Blog posts will probably be more frequent, but shorter than normal…we’ll see how that style works.
If this trip to Ukraine goes well, maybe it will give me the confidence to go to other places of questionable safety. But I am very much looking forward to it. Stay tuned!
You are crazy.
You can save the money and time and just watch Johnny FD’s YouTube channel. You are just doing it to say, “I went to Ukraine during the war.”
It will be a chance to see firsthand what may change the world. Our lives are manipulated to fear all. I would go to see the resilience, strength of Ukrainians versus the soft mush suburbia has become.
You can’t say how soft suburbia is until someone invades them…I’m sure people in Ukraine were saying the same thing about themselves prior to the invasion and look how they stepped up.
“You are just doing it to say, “I went to Ukraine during the war.””
Bingo?
Stupid publicity stunt and you should be ashamed of yourself
This sounds insane
Comments section’s gonna be real interesting for this one… hope you manage a safe trip!
Whatever adventure you may aspire to in life, you must always think about your dependents such as your minor kids, spouse and elderly parents. You are not a journalist or investigator in a war zone to earn a living. Not only you risk your life, you also put lives of first responders at risk who try to rescue you. It happens so often to people who refuse to evacuate when mother nature’s fury is on the way or those who hike in mountains in winter season. That is super self-fish. You want to explore places of questionable safety–all power to you but always remember that when you continue pushing your luck, luck will someday run out and danger will catch up with you. I’d love to read your trip reports to African countries as few are on your wish list. Visit Bhutan , Mongolia, Myanmar, Mauritius, Madagascar etc.. I plan to visit those countries in the next two years. I visited Bhutan and Sri Lanka in 2018. Exceptional countries– highly recommended.
I’m glad you posted this BEFORE you left. Some tips:
1) You’ll probably need some kind of certificate of export for art. Be sure to get this done. This is to protect national treasures from being smuggled out of the country.
2) The PKP train from Warzszawa to the border is exceptionally reliable. I found it was useful to use Apple pay to buy tickets in that my credit card flagged transactions but Apple didn’t. Many stores there are credit card enabled, including touch pay. Be sure to clear with your credit card company before you leave so you don’t have issues.
3) Pro-tip! Some people use the main train to get across the border and then disembark leaving the train free for travel between the border city and Kiev. So… check for space available from the Ukrainian side border town to Kiev and then just take PKP (Polish train) to the Polish border, then a taxi/ride across to the station, then from there continue on. It’s a hassle, granted, but doable. Keep in mind that the train gets held up by passport control for at least an hour or so therefore your delay should be minimal. I am surprised that the Ukrainian rail website, http://www.uz.gov.ua, appears to be down as I type this. Use Google Pay to buy tickets there too.
4) Try chebureki, my favorite snack which is the Ukrainian version that predates Fish-and-Chips. Delicious! Often sold by folks at the rail platforms.
I’d think very hard about this before doing it. It’s your life but you have family to consider also so please ensure they understand the risks. Best of luck if you do it.
Incredible! Love this!!!
Do a little research outside the Main Street Media and you might discover that the West and the US are the real aggressors. I’ve done extensive research on this and it has become obvious to me that those parties instigated this war in an attempt to weaken Russia thru sanctions. When that did not work they decided to use the Ukraine in a proxy war against Russia. Now they have a tiger by the tail. Russia is winning this war and there is not a lot that the West can do about it. But, they will continue to fight the war to the “last Ukrainian”. Very sad state of affairs for the poor Ukrainians who had no say in this fight other than to die in it.
ok boomer
Russia invaded Ukraine.
Ivan, oh sorry Gerald, you don’t have to sell it so hard to the Americanisti. Too much and it becomes obvious that you’re an agent of influence.
Extensive research all on sites that ended in .ru I assume
Is this one of those “Russian disinformation trolls” the kids are talking about?
I agree with Gerald..no surprise. He’s on point. Hopefully Matthew’s trip is safe and ideally he picks up wind of Gerald’s points when in Ukraine and can then report back on what Ukrainians are saying there. Ukraine is one of the most corrupt nations on earth. Here are some media headlines prior to the war:
1) The Guardian — Welcome to Ukraine, the most corrupt nation in Europe
2) Reuters — Ukraine’s Neo-Nazi problem
3) Vox — A Ukrainian comedian-turned-president is embroiled in Trump’s impeachment mess
4) New Europe — Ukrainians president’s rule becomes increasingly corrupt, authoritarian
5) Associated Press: Looking for evidence? Trust us, Biden administration says
It is interesting how this narrative did such a 180. Some headlines to research:
1) NPR: Corruption concerns involving Ukraine are revived as the war with Russia drags on
2) Newsweek: The U.S. and NATO Helped Trigger the Ukraine War. It’s Not ‘Siding With Putin’ to Admit It’
3) WSJ: The Two Blunders That Caused the Ukraine War
4) National Pulse: PBS Hosts Neo-Nazi Ukraine Mayor, Blurs Image of ‘Hitler Accomplice’ Behind Him
5) teleSUR: ‘NATO Planned to Launch a War Against Russia’: Azarov
Older headlines:
1) Interfax Ukraine: Burisma paid Joe Biden $900,000 for lobbying – Ukrainian MP
2) Fox News: Bill Maher blasts Hunter Biden’s Ukraine ties: If Don Jr. did it, Rachel Maddow would be all over it
3) Ron Paul Institute: US Media Covers Up Mass Murder in Odessa
So..add in Hunter and Joe’s Ukraine corruption on top of all of of this, plus the biolabs that the Pentagon admitted to last year: “The United States has also worked collaboratively to improve Ukraine’s biological safety, security, and disease surveillance for both human and animal health, providing support to 46 peaceful Ukrainian laboratories, health facilities, and disease diagnostic sites over the last two decades.” Interesting, thought they were a conspiracy theory:
https://www.defense.gov/News/Releases/Release/Article/3057517/fact-sheet-on-wmd-threat-reduction-efforts-with-ukraine-russia-and-other-former
Ukraine=Biolabs
Ukraine=Money laundering
Ukraine=Trafficking hub
Ukraine=Sex slave industry
Ukraine=Burisma
Ukraine=The Biden Family
Ukraine=Not trustworthy
Biden–March 11, 2022: “The idea that we are going to send tanks to Ukraine, that’s World War III”. Biden–January 25, 2023: “The United States will be sending tanks to Ukraine”.
If you can recall, the COVID narrative was completely replaced by the Ukraine narrative. It was hard to take the new narrative seriously when it shifted from “create misery for the unvaccinated” to “stand with the Ukrainian people”, when 56% of of their citizens are not vaccinated against COVID. Plus “USA citizens don’t need guns”, while sending tons of guns there. Lots of hypocrisy, but no is shocked there.
The commenters replying to Gerald seemingly do not have the full picture.
Hopefully Matthew will obtain it during travels.
AJ=Gerald
Nope, have no reason to post under another name at this point seeing how hated I am, but thankful for him to start the convo.
truth > personal attacks
Spot on.
I know it’s hard to believe that people who agree with the facts are out there, but they are.
Lol, the Russians troll Live and Let Fly! Who else would spend so much time when TODAY, Russia has shown the world that it is even more corrupt than the “headlines” (btw, wtf does that mean?) showed Ukraine to be before the war!
Both nations are corrupt, that’s for certain. Russia might be doing the world a favor destroying the biolabs, though.
To your other point, what is a headline? Headline Definition & Meaning – Merriam-Webster
: words set at the head of a passage or page to introduce or categorize.
: a head of a newspaper story or article usually printed in large type and giving the gist of the story or article that follows.
Nailed it
Thank you so much, Garrett. I’m glad years of research resonated with someone.
As a military man who spent time in Iraq and Bosnia during conflict, I can say I never saw any American tourists during that time. Had I seen anyone, I would have told them they were perfectly crazy and what a stupid idea (as people were occasionally getting killed all around us).
Sure, give us a review of working hotels and the street food sold by train station vendors, as if that’s normal life. And your only planned “safety” factor is you plan to publish a day late.
If you get killed over there, I wonder what your family would say later – he was a travel blogger who wanted to buy some art in a war torn country. Fairly self-centered. That’s it.
Erm…..I think if you were an accredited journalist working for a respected media outlet, heading to a war zone might be acceptable, but going as effectively a “war tourist” isn’t sensible or credible.
Leave the analysis to the experts.
Expertise is crafted over time through experience.
The more I think about this, the more I think you are an idiot.
Not too bright, Matt. Kiev being largely spared up to this point doesn’t mean it will continue to be.
I’d advise you find “adventure” elsewhere.
You have a family to take care of. Put your selfish curiosity pursuits aside and think about your family.
+100000000000
Regardless of how much the western media is propping up Ukraine, they’re barely hanging in there.
I’m sure you argued with your wife over this one – and guess what: she’s right, Stay home.
Hope your life insurance is paid up and they will pay in war zones!!
I thought “disaster tourism” was bad, but “war tourism” is worse. Your ability to rationalize bad behavior seems boundless.
Looking forward to the trip report, though it may be a good idea to look into getting some high-end travel insurance that would cover Ukraine, just in case.
Selfish and frankly stupid. Go when the war is over and they need tourism to help bring in $ to rebuild.
At the end of October, 2022 I traveled to Lviv. Flew to Warsaw and then a very comfortable motorcoach to Lviv. It was a long trip, about five hours and with 2 hours to cross the border. There were hundreds of trucks lined up along the road waiting to cross into Ukraine. The bus passed them and after more than an hour waiting at the immigration office and in the bus, we were let inside. It was no different that any other land border crossing anywhere else in the world. Two uniformed and very professional officers were in the two booths and two questions were asked: How do you pronounce your name and why are you here. He got the answers from me and simply, and with a smile, wished me a good stay. Easy. An hour later I was in downtown Lviv, followed the route on my GPS and noticed that I was about half a mile from my hotel. Asked if I could get off the bus and walk to the hotel. The two drivers did not speak English, looked at the phone and with smiles let me off. It was 23:25 and I made it to the hotel 10 minutes before the curfew (midnight)! I was encouraged to take the train to Kiev but time did not allow for that. I strongly suggest that you take the bus to Lviv and then the train to Kiev. What a wonderful town and great people. Bon Voyage!
By the way my iPhone and AT&T worked flawlessly there.
Why, oh why, oh why, would you want to do that? Totally irresponsible. What could possibly be gained by such an ill thought out selfish undertaking?
If I were you, I would recognise your limitations: concentrate on making your ‘travel reports’ more polished and professional and leave proper journalism to experienced and accredited media professionals.
If nothing else you won’t widow your wife and orphan your kids, and will live to write about poncing about in fancy seats on flights of fancy…..
Why??? You are out of your league.
Travel writer, stay in your lane.
Okay. If you can accept being self-sufficient and the last to expect assistance should you need it. No complaining. No whimpering. Hopefully it will all go well, but also reflect upon what would be the better timing for a travel blogger to make the most positive impact. No shame in backing off but meanwhile start breaking in the best boots out there.
“No complaining”? Uh, have you read this blog? 🙂
@Sco. Oh yes. Want to see a no complaining outlook on this one!
From the guy who compared denied lounge access “Apartheid” I wouldn’t expect too much.
Why don’t you go to the Donbas (now Russia) where civilians have been shelled for 9 years and see what the western mainstream media has ignored? At least you’ll see the mass corruption in Ukraine, civilians pulled off the street by govt. agents for the draft so people who didn’t ask for the war are sent to die against Russian artillery, and see how Ukrainians who speak Russian are abused and persecuted. You’ll also probably spot luxury cars bought with U.S. tax payer money as well as rockets being placed in schools, kindergartens, and shopping malls.
The biggest danger you face in Kiev is the Ukrainian air defense systems are known to destroy their own apartment buildings and homes when they of course fail to counter advanced Russia hypersonic or ballistic missiles and land in population centers.
Maybe you’ll realize everything the western media has said is the opposite and Ukraine is controlled by globalists. It is awful the amount life wasted because Ukraine does not recognize 2 regions that declared independence and now 4 which have voted democratically to join Russia. If Ukraine did not shell the Donbas for 9 years and persecute Russians in Ukraine, Russia wouldn’t be in Ukraine.
Yawn
Ok, John.
Would you like some more Kool-Aid, John?
You’d better start reading The Moscow Times (independent Russian media, as far as I can tell) instead of listening to Tsar Putin’s propaganda machine.
P.S. The Ukrainian people and especially President Zelensyy are heroes in my book.
https://liveandletsfly.com/ukraine-trip/#comment-674145
Is that you Hunter. Why did Ukraine pay you?
“Maybe you’ll realize everything the western media has said is the opposite and Ukraine is controlled by globalists.”
— 100%. Thank you for speaking the truth, John.
“Ukraine is controlled by globalists.”
Didn’t realize Ukraine leadership are Hyatt loyalists, but thanks for your (pathetic) try.
No lies detected in John’s statement. He’s obviously referring to globalists as in the uni-political party that is presiding over rising crime in inner cities, a border crisis, vaccine mandates, rampant inflation, Chinese infiltration, a proxy war against a nuclear power, deteriorating infrastructure, ecological disasters, food supply disruption, unconstitutional actions, human rights violations, disappearing freedom, nonstop propaganda, and way more. Or yeah, just Hyatt globalists.
Good for you! The artwork thing seems a bit odd but I’m sure that lots of your readers are wondering what life there is like and I greatly look forward to hearing about your adventures.
Consider yourself warned/advised:
https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/traveladvisories/traveladvisories/ukraine-travel-advisory.html
“If this trip to Ukraine goes well, maybe it will give me the confidence to go to other places of questionable safety.” This has to be the most head scratching part of this entire article. What does your success in leaving Ukraine in one piece have to do with the fact the same will happen in the future if you visit another dangerous place?
“I’ve come to believe that there exists in the universe something I call “The Physics of The Quest” — a force of nature governed by laws as real as the laws of gravity or momentum. And the rule of Quest Physics maybe goes like this:
If you are brave enough to leave behind everything familiar and comforting (which can be anything from your house to your bitter old resentments) and set out on a truth-seeking journey (either externally or internally)..
And if you are truly willing to regard everything that happens to you on that journey as a clue..
And if you accept everyone you meet along the way as a teacher..
And if you are prepared – most of all – to face (and forgive) some very difficult realities about yourself..
Then truth will not be withheld from you.”
―Elizabeth Gilbert, Eat, Pray, Love
Safe travels.
Hopefully you are safe but the world will be a better place when the grifting wannabe comedian running that country is removed from power and is hung for his crimes against his people. And I pray he doesn’t get his citizens nuked before realizing his folly.
100%. Perhaps if Ohio had hung some Ukrainian flags, they would have got help sooner than two weeks after a major disaster event. I guess we learned nothing from Hurricane Katrina.
Mayor Pete’s gonna show up and toss the residents of East palestine some paper towels since the previous administration showed that’s all you really need to do
Only difference is Pete will let the guys line up with a place to dump their frustrations off in. Granted it’s too wide open for most to enjoy at this point but if they get him mid week it might tighten up a little. Luckily he likes it in the mouth too.
Who says taking all the cum you can isn’t a career path? This administration showed it’s a benefit between “him” and Kamala.
It wasn’t lost on me that after Trump announced he would be heading to Ohio, FEMA reversed their denial of support.
Also, is it possible to try to compose productive comments in the future? It’s interesting that I get called out but these meaningless posts adding nothing to the discussion are allowed but I’m the problem?
Come on man. Post constructively, if nothing else.
I don’t even see the issue, governor dewine said the water and air are all good. Is there a fast food restaurant trump likes there or something?
Flints water is allegedly safe but still dirty, all these years later, so I don’t see your point. Of course they aren’t going to incite panic. This is Erin Brockovich and/or Chernobyl 2.0.
I don’t see your point. You are admonishing the feds for ignoring these people but seem to be excusing dewine not doing anything, (someone who has the most responsibility to help these people), and lieing about the water and air quality as to not incite panic
I never said any of that lol but yes your points are valid to the extent that Dewine is horrible so far, too. But incorrect to the extent that I said that. I didn’t.
Calling for assassination of the leader of a US ally. Someone needs to be knocking on your door soon
Was the murder of Saddam also an assassination in your mind? He was an ally of the US, until he wasn’t.
Well a lot fewer people would have died if they left him alone… that was Bush and Cheney
You will be a target. You might think about your Russian soldier imprissonment escape plan. No one will be there to rescue you. Stay in Warsaw, which is pretty close as it is.
You are most likely staying at the Hyatt or similar joint but if you want to stay at a play where you will be convinced Brezhnev will bump into you in the hallway stay at the Hotel Ukraine on the hill above the Maidan.
Place not play.
Mathew, do you and your family have the expectation that should you be captured and imprisoned by the Russians, that the U.S. government and potentially other allies will expend resources negotiating for your release? If that occurs, I don’t want to see your family on news programs crying that the U.S. should do something. Besides, negotiating your release would eliminate what could be your biggest adventure: surviving a Russian prison in Siberia during winter when convicted of being a U.S. spy. And don’t be a pussy. Stay for the entire term of your sentence.
You review airline meals and premium cabin accommodations. I’ve been to 2 war zones and the last thing a war needs is some self-indulgent American tourist playing junior journalist in a war zone just for the adventure. War correspondents will snicker behind your back if not laugh in your face. And should you get lost, captured, hurt or killed, you become a needless burden. Frankly, you’ll be a burden just by being there.
Just what the Ukrainian’s need. Someone stopping by just to see how it’s going. Talk about tone deaf.
I actually find it fascinating and a worthy look at the reality of life there. Especially by someone as less influenced or with a smaller voice than, say, Sean Penn. And from someone we trust from reading LALF over the years.
I have often found over the years when traveling to “dangerous” places, locations that are subject to news of war torn death and violence that, in fact, things were far less harrowing than what was reported. The reality is that life goes on in many places and that in itself is a story. I am really interested to hear what Matthew sees. The very fact that the Hyatt is open and accepting guests is telling to one thing…there is a resiliant spirit still very much alive. And I want to know more. Personally, I see this as a trip that separates Matthew from everyone else…he is curious, willing, and not afraid to step out of the comfort zone.
I agree and look forward to the reporting. I just hope he travels with security or family/friends and is safe and protected from any possible harms. I don’t support the Ukrainian or Russian governments, but I do support those the peaceful people of those nations, of which there are many.
@ Stuart. Agreed to some point. Diverting resources is a complication. An unknown. As are Matthew’s survival skills. (To me) As long as Putin lives no one but Putin can anticipate what he might direct.
The fact that the Hyatt is open is no real clue as to the actual dangers. Journalists need a base.
What resources need to be diverted? As far as Putin, of course he is unpredictable. As is life in general.
I am looking forward to reading this and hearing an inside story from someone I actually feel will be straight forward and balanced.
@Stuart. Any resources. Food, transport, security, whatever. Most journalists have crews of communication,translators and security. Not saying Matthew doesn’t have such in place, but not to rely on others for support is critical. And yeah the Forrest Gump approach is iffy
I also look forward to his experience
Well, when this posted today I was curious and looked at the Hyatt website. Pretty simple to book a reservation as if going to Kansas City instead of Kyiv. So, not sure what special resources were needed. It will be interesting to read more and see.
@Stuart . Missed my point. Sure you can check in , without support your up the creek without the kayak, or the paddle. Right?
@Maryland. Sure, but that’s a risk in about 40% of the world. Not just Ukraine. I’ve run rivers all over the world including some crazy areas in the Himalayas and South America and each person must calculate their own risk/ reward. Further, Matthew mentioned he does have friends in Ukraine so I hardly see this, given his age and health and low footprint, as a burden on the system or a risk to himself or others.
Travel to High-Risk Areas
If you choose to disregard the Travel Advisory and travel to Ukraine, you should consider taking the following steps:
Visit our website on Travel to High-Risk areas.
Draft a will and designate appropriate insurance beneficiaries and/or power of attorney.
Discuss a plan with loved ones regarding care/custody of children, pets, property, belongings, non-liquid assets (collections, artwork, etc.), funeral wishes, etc.
Share important documents, login information, and points of contact with loved ones so that they can manage your affairs if you are unable to return as planned to the United States.
Leave DNA samples with your medical provider in case it is necessary for your family to access them.
Establish your own personal security plan in coordination with your employer or host organization or consider consulting with a professional security organization.
Develop a communication plan with family and/or your employer or host organization so that they can monitor your safety and location as you travel through high-risk areas. This plan should specify who you would contact first and how they should share the information.
Enroll your trip in the State Department’s Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP) to receive Alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
Follow the Department of State on Facebook and Twitter.
Prepare a contingency plan for emergency situations. Review the Traveler’s Checklist.
See the U.S. Embassy’s website regarding COVID-19.
Not sure how helpful the Embassy’s website is going to be on the last one but a good amount of the rest are helpful tips for any world traveler traveling to a war torn country. As far as COVID, HCQ and Zinc are effective both prophylactically and when used early. Having medication you might not think you need when traveling could be helpful. HCQ and other COVID meds can be obtained by prescription in the USA in almost every state. You do not have to be actively sick to obtain a prescription, as symptoms may not appear for 2-14 days after exposure to the virus.
https://www.yahoo.com/now/study-shows-hydroxychloroquine-zinc-treatments-210300816.html
American Journal of Medicine:
“Zinc is a known inhibitor of coronavirus replication. Clinical trials of zinc lozenges in the common cold have demonstrated modest reductions in the duration and or severity of symptoms. By extension, this readily available nontoxic therapy could be deployed at the first signs of COVID-19.”
“HCQ was approved by the US Food and Drug Administration in 1955, has been used by hundreds of millions of people worldwide since then, is sold over the counter in many countries, and has a well-characterized safety profile that should not raise undue alarm.”
AJM is the official journal of the Alliance for Academic Internal Medicine, a prestigious group comprising internal medicine department chairs at more than 125 medical schools across the U.S.
https://www.amjmed.com/article/S0002-9343(20)30673-2/fulltext
“This article is a preprint and has not been peer-reviewed [what does this mean?]. It reports new medical research that has yet to be evaluated and so should not be used to guide clinical practice.”
Go with AJM then: https://www.amjmed.com/action/showPdf?pii=S0002-9343%2820%2930673-2
Or there’s countless others. Google.
From a strictly “Yeah, this is a brilliant project for me as a blogger” standpoint, this ranks right up there with Lucky’s attempt to crowd-fund his A380 Residence boondoggle.
Also with Kyle bragging about flying into Malaysia at the height of the Covid pandemic.
This trip seems to have a feel of hubris. The war is going to intensify soon. Russia has not attacked yet with anywhere near the force that a modern army does. No need to take such a risk to your life
Why do you think I’m going now ahead of the anniversary? I figured now or never.
I’m not sure Leos are known for hubris..oh wait–
It’s important for celestial lions to remember that their light is never obscured by others, and the bright shine of others’ success does nothing to their own. Ultimately, Leos’ own hubris is the greatest threat to their happiness.
This fixed sign is known for its ambition and determination, but above all, Leos are celebrated for their remarkable bravery. In tarot, Leo is represented by the “strength” card, which depicts the divine expression of physical, mental, and emotional fortitude. Fearless optimists who refuse to accept failure, Leos will find their deep wells of courage grow as they mature.
I’m a foreign worker based in Kyiv. Some tips which might be useful:
Ukrainian Railways operates daily train services from Przemysl in Poland to Kyiv, with stops at Lviv and other cities along the way. You have options for sleeper and standard 1st+2nd class seat trains, both overnight and day trips. It’s 9-13 hours each way depending on the train you pick. Always account for some delay with your arrival time due to the border immigration checks, so don’t book another train right after the published arrival time. Immigration on the Poland side involves slow queues outside the platform in this winter weather, while in Ukraine the train stops to let the officers enter the train carriages and do the passport checks onboard.
Download the air raid alert app on your phone. Attacks might intensify in the coming weeks. It’s jarring at first, but don’t let repeated alarms (often with nothing actually happening) make you feel complacent. Some missiles and drones do reach inland, and debris still might fall down after they get shot down by the army.
There are scheduled electricity cuts due to the attacks on power plants. In Kyiv power cuts have been significantly reduced lately, but in other cities and regions they’re still in effect. Bring a torch — especially helpful when you’re walking out at night and the streetlights are out.
There’s a curfew (11 pm – 5 am).
In Kyiv, life is mostly normal except for the curfew, darker-than-usual evenings, and the air raid alerts.
I’m afraid I agree with most commenters that this is irresponsible. It is not just your own safety that you are risking. Please consider your family and loved ones, and to the people that will inevitably end up diverting resources and risking their lives – asked or unasked – should you get into trouble. I have tremendous respect for people in Ukraine, including foreigners providing help and support, and reporting the situation to the outside world. With all due respect (and I do mean that) you are not in that category and should leave it to the professionals. The professionals that, incidentally, receive extensive real-time security and intelligence briefings and undergo very extensive security training. At the very least I urge you to get extensive professional advice.
I make those comments with respect. If you do go, I wish you the very best of luck.
This is a good perspective, too. It is totally understandable if he doesn’t go. It sounds like he’s going but if he goes he will he protected. Divine order. My favorite Marianne Williamson quotes:
Go forth in confidence and go forth in peace, for there are angels to your your left and there are angels to your right, angels above you and angels below, angels in front of you and angels behind you. You are loved and you are not alone.
Where would you have me go?
What would you have me do?
What would you have me say?
And to whom?
Do them a favor, stay home! As appealing as the prospect of you having a Russian middle shoved up your ass is, the last thing the Ukrainians need is a massive ego’d douchebag coming to their shores.
I think when historians look back on this time in United States History and World History that the name of this period or age will be agreeably titled ‘War Games’.
Lieutenant General Michael Flynn has a new book out explaining how war is different now–The Citizen’s Guide to Fifth Generation Warfare. It takes a village.
Additionally, citizen journalists are important right now. If Matthew’s is going for that reason, then I think it’s important, if he wants to accept the risk.
Matt,
I was going to type a lengthy response that expands on some of the comments above
Maybe Sherry’s comments alone should make you reconsider.
Maybe ask yourself – have you ever been in a situation where you really, truly, and immediately feared for your life?
-and not just not getting a suite upgrade or access to a lounge…or even a little turbulence on a flight
– I mean like someone pointing a gun in your face…someone who doesnt speak English and who doesnt like Americans
Remember Daniel Pearl?
and you dont even work for the WSJ, NYT, CNN, AP, BBC, etc – or even Fox
hence, you dont even play in the WNBA
…and, if you still are intent on doing this, keep in the back of your mind – if something happens, no one is going to come and save you…..
… and if you think you can just tweet, email, blog, or even call your way out maybe recall how unstable the infrastructure is there…heck, you might not even be able to charge your phone/computer
I have friends who have been traveling and working there as part of an apolitical medical mission with the support of the local governments and US State Department – and everything that people are writing about above is true – but worse.
At least you are getting a lot of ‘clicks’ for this article – maybe you can share with us why you still think this is a good idea?
-m
While personally won’t choose to go to Ukraine, I noticed people who actually have experience in Ukraine all provide useful tips, instead of blanket talking Matt out of it or flat out trolling. Most of my Ukraine friends live (almost) normal life, and I’m wondering how can the alleged ex-military compare Ukraine to war time Iraq / Afghan, the difference is night and day.
I wish Matt best of luck, and while you’re at it, do something about trolls in comment area.
Wow, my favorite soyboy is headed to a warzone. This should be interesting.
I don’t eat soy, but thanks for reading.
Good luck kiddo!!!!
Do you really need to see for yourself? Is this a good time to bring your needs to a wartime theater? Think about what disaster organization advise to would-be do-gooders whenever some disaster strikes, basically “if you aren’t trained and can’t support yourself, you’re ADDING burden to an overburdened situation.”
IMO it would be far better and much more informative to amplify the word of others who ARE on the ground. I’ve been to Kyiv many times for work and my heart aches for colleagues, friends, and a nation which has constantly had its prospects limited by other nations and its own fairly surface-level corruption.
Think about bringing much-needed supplies with you. I had to work in Poland this past year and delivered quite a lot of supplies to a Polish network supplying the front lines. If you are going that far, do at least this.
Matt, I really enjoy your blog, it’s one of my favorites, partially due to your thoughtful and honest commentary. Two years ago, I travelled to Haiti to visit my wife’s family even though they advised us not to come to due excessive gang/insurgent warfare. The trip was mostly fantastic, except for one very scary day that I won’t detail here. One thing I learned on that trip is how quickly things can change in unstable political situations. I urge you to think long and hard about why you want to do this before you end of in a situation you may come to regret.
How do you intend on providing an honest review of the hotel’s service and amenities without coming across as a massive prick?
I’ll find a way, but appreciate your concern.
First off wish you the best of luck over there.
Secondly I know people that do go over there but not all the way to Kyiv (normally to Lviv or Khlementski [sp?] area which is still 5 or so hours west of Kyiv.
Keep you head on a swivel. Some important things to note over there. There are a lot of blackouts and also restrictions at night to where most are actually cutting off electricity to not be spotted. Life does carry on pretty decently but the biggest thing is to get CASH before you cross the border. Yes the Hryvnia to Dollar is like 40 HRV to $1 or something close to that. However there have been times that ATM networks are down or they might not be taking foreign bank cards.
Also in Kyiv be prepared while you are in the hotel to go into the subway system if the Air Sirens go off as that is the normal bomb/missile shelter. They will and have gone off at all hours.
Get a Local SIM card. The cell network is fragmented but speeds in the cities should be comparable to 5G. However in the country areas not as much.
Matthew, think about your safety and your family if something goes wrong. I know a hundred people have said it already, but I think it’s worth adding one more.
Matthew this is daft. Even if you will come back safe – not a given with Russian airstrike capacity – the water/power/food supplies infrastructure in Kyiv does not need a war tourist to additionally support right now. And no disrespect to the reach of your blog, but the trip is for selfish personal reasons rather than something that would actually help the Ukrainians win..
I traveled to Kyiv for a week myself last October, and the whole experience was fantastic.
At no time did I feel threatened or in danger — just inconvenienced by regular power outages and the occasional air raid alerts. There were signs of warfare here and there, all mostly from the Russian advances on the city months earlier, in the spring.
Kyiv today is far from the center of action in the south. You are wise NOT to plan travel there.
Some of the advice offered upthread is sensible and prudent, but ignore the naysayers and those who haven’t been there but warn you to be afraid.
I did travel with prescriptions of HCQ and IVM at the ready and a current MedJet membership, in case of anything extreme — not that their services would extract you from Ukraine. It’s not “MedRail,” after all.
Speaking of the railways, there are definitely stories to tell about getting there from Warszawa. If I was to return, I would try to find something other than the once-nightly “direct” PolRail train. THAT was an experience — in ways I could never have predicted.
I do know a contact — an American, a filmmaker/documentarian — who I just learned will be heading there in the near future. He has arranged a van to drive his small group all the way. DM me, and if your travel dates coincide, I”ll put you in touch with him.
I am particularly happy that you’re heading there to purchase a piece of art, BTW. As a retired art dealer myself, anyone supporting the arts is AOK by me! Would love to see it once you’ve made it back.
Meant to say “email me” …
Very smart on HCQ and IVM
Insane. Insane and irresponsible. The reasons you laid out for going are not worth it, especially with a family/young children 5,000 miles away. There is so much that could go wrong.
Good luck to you
Checks date to see if it’s April 1….
Nope. If this is your introduction to risky places you’re really not thinking this through. I wouldn’t do it as a single person far more experienced in such environments so to do it with a wife and kids? Just when I thought I’d seen everything unwise the blogger world had to offer…
I can tell you that this is about the most white male thing that Matthew could do. This is exactly the type of subconscious entitlement that gets mostly white tourists in trouble abroad, including the poor student who decided to steal a propaganda flag during his trip to N. Korea. Similarly, this makes me think about the time that Ben from OMAAT taking photos in the prayer room aboard a Middle Eastern airline–even though no one was inside. People’s lives are not meant to be a zoo exhibit for one’s self edification. (This makes me think about the “destruction tours” that people took during the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina — they rode motorcoaches and just went around surveying the destruction.)
This is not about race, ffs. More importantly, stop making everything about race. If everything is racist, nothing is.
This is awesome. Looking forward to the live blog. Stay safe!
Just a reminder- you are choosing to go to an active war zone without any good reason to be there. If/when you get hurt, stranded, or captured, you will be on your own. The United States will not launch a rescue mission to retrieve you, putting your fellow Americans at risk,
I’m not traveling to the front lines…