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Home » Trip Reports » Ukraine 2023 Trip Report » I Scored A Train Ticket To Kyiv!
PolandTrainsUkraine 2023 Trip Report

I Scored A Train Ticket To Kyiv!

Matthew Klint Posted onFebruary 22, 2023November 13, 2023 41 Comments

This week I’m “liveblogging” my trip to Ukraine. Unlike traditional reports, these posts will be shorter and more frequent.


I’m pleased to report that I was able to secure a nonstop train ticket from Warsaw to Kyiv just hours before departure. What a relief…I was bracing myself for a long and uncomfortable bus ride.

Booking A Train Ticket From Warsaw To Kyiv

I took an Uber from Warsaw Chopin Airport to Warszawa Centralna, where I hoped to find some way to Kyiv. There is a daily evening departure that goes from Warsaw to Kyiv with sleeper cars and requires no change of trains. Polrail sells tickets online for this journey, but for days it has shown sold out.

a black pole with white text and a sign

a man driving a car

a large building with a large sign on the side of it

a blue car parked on the side of a road

I journeyed to the train station thinking it was likely futile, but worth a shot: maybe there would be a last-minute cancellation?

At the main station, I found a line at the ticket counter, but it moved quickly.

a group of people standing in front of a large screen

people standing in line at a counter

When I reached the front, an older woman just stared at me and nodded. I greeted her in Polish and asked if she spoke English or German. She shook her head.

I then said, “Kyiv.”

Her eyes opened wide.

She said something to me in Polish…no idea what…but I responded, “Teraz. Dzisiaj.” No idea if I said it correctly, but I tried to convey “now, today.”

She began furiously typing on her computer and about a minute later, pointed toward the credit card reader sitting outside the booth.

What had she found? Was there nonstop space or would I have to make multiple connections? I asked her how much and she just pointed again to the credit card reader.

Oh well, fine.

I tapped my card and this time it worked.

She printed my tickets (both a train ticket and seat reservation) and handed it to me.

She told me something and I was able to catch Warszawa Zachodnia, which is the Warsaw West station. I knew some trains departed from that station, so I pointed west and said, “Inna stacja?” (other station?). She nodded.

Success!

a hand holding a ticket

It appeared I was booked into a sleeper car with three beds. Fine by me. The ticket cost 215zł (which hit my card as 48USD exactly).

I stopped for a flat white at Ministry of Coffee before proceeding to the station.

a street with cars and a building in the background

a building with many windows

a cup of coffee on a table with a white building in the background

a cup of coffee with a spoon

Next stop: Warszawa Zachodnia

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About Author

Matthew Klint

Matthew is an avid traveler who calls Los Angeles home. Each year he travels more than 200,000 miles by air and has visited more than 135 countries. Working both in the aviation industry and as a travel consultant, Matthew has been featured in major media outlets around the world and uses his Live and Let's Fly blog to share the latest news in the airline industry, commentary on frequent flyer programs, and detailed reports of his worldwide travel.

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41 Comments

  1. Aaron Reply
    February 22, 2023 at 7:13 pm

    And the nonsense continues…

  2. Maryland Reply
    February 22, 2023 at 7:27 pm

    Yay! Can’t wait to for the next installment

  3. Stuart Reply
    February 22, 2023 at 7:35 pm

    Awesome! Keep em coming!

  4. Gravelly Point Guy Reply
    February 22, 2023 at 7:36 pm

    Wooohooo!! Be careful!!

  5. Jerry Reply
    February 22, 2023 at 7:43 pm

    Interesting you had to go to Zachodnia. Historically trains would either start in Zachodnia or Wschodnia, then stop in Centralna, then the other one on the way out of town depending on the direction. I KNOW Kyiv used to stop in Centralna. Was there anything special (security or otherwise) you saw at Zachodnia?

  6. Nico Reply
    February 22, 2023 at 7:45 pm

    What’s wrong with you?? Seriously.

  7. Bob Reply
    February 22, 2023 at 7:57 pm

    Dumb dumb dumb. What some people will do for page clicks.

    • Matthew Klint Reply
      February 22, 2023 at 7:58 pm

      What do you know about Ukraine?

      • Fantastico Reply
        February 22, 2023 at 8:06 pm

        Apparently a lot more than you do

        • Matthew Klint Reply
          February 22, 2023 at 8:33 pm

          Keep reading.

      • Fonzi Reply
        February 22, 2023 at 10:13 pm

        What is ypur point to proove?? Frankly going willingly into war torn country while having wife amd 2 kids i find irresponsible. My personal view.If you single no problem. Anyway slowly opening popcorn.

  8. Doug Reply
    February 22, 2023 at 9:01 pm

    From the image of your reservation, it *looks like* your train will (has already?) depart(ed) from “Warszawa Wsc” — which should be an abbreviation for Wschodnia, the EASTERN railway station. The one from which the only daily “nonstop” train to Kyiv I know of departs.
    If you went to Zachodnia instead, I hope either that I am wrong about this, or that you were able to sort out all out in time to get back to Wschodnia…
    I also look forward to hearing about your experience on the “non-stop” service. Clue: the rails in Poland are a different gauge (!) than the rails in Ukraine, yet you remain in the same compartment, on the same railway car, all the way to Kyiv.
    Puzzle me that.
    But you knew you were in for an adventure!

    • PolishKnight Reply
      February 22, 2023 at 9:12 pm

      Matt made it! I explained previously that sometimes a slot/bed/seat may get taken by someone taking the train across the border and they charge a premium for that. After all, in theory someone might take the train from Warzszawa to a city just across the border in Ukraine, and then from there someone new might go to Kiev. So that person who was holding up that slot may have cancelled and he managed to score a last minute ticket. He could have taken a train to the Polish side of the border, gotten that uncomfortable bus ticket across the border, and then hopped across and continued from the Ukrainian side…

      I should have added as a tip for him to download the PKP app on his phone and he could pay that way (and with his credit card!) and he could have used this to search for ticket openings or even go online. I (think) that PKP website does allow tickets to be saved in your Apple Wallet. Oh well, sometimes I forget this stuff too and kick myself.

      In answer to your rail gauge change: They do that while the train is on the tracks. It takes about 15 minutes somehow. You don’t have to switch trains. I also think it seems like he’s supposed to catch East, rather than West station. I hope it works out.

      • Doug Reply
        February 23, 2023 at 10:39 pm

        I took the same overnight “nonstop” train to Kyiv myself in November and was fascinated by the 4 hour “whistle stop” to swap out the bogies — about which I was completely uninformed before the trip.
        Spent most of that time — wide awake, in the wee hours around midnight — on the open platform at the end of the car, watching the workers hoist heavy equipment to and from, so the train could roll on to Kyiv on Soviet-era Russian gauge rails.
        So much hard, manual work to get a trainload of people back and forth. #RESPECT

    • jhrabideau Reply
      February 22, 2023 at 9:24 pm

      They pull the train into a shed and swap out the bogies at the Ukrainian border on the IC 68 (Kyiv Express) to accommodate the gauge change.

  9. Kyle Reply
    February 22, 2023 at 9:24 pm

    I did a similar trip in December, but leaving from Chisinau rather than Warsaw. One of the best trips I’ve ever taken, and one I would absolutely repeat now that I know a bit more about what to expect.

    Despite the negativity in the comments on this post and your last, I experienced literally none of these sentiments from those within Ukraine. Everyone outside UA will think you’re crazy for going, but those actually there are happy to see visitors and will welcome you warmly.

    You’ll be amazed by how “normal” life seems in the major cities. Truly a testament to the strength of the Ukrainian nation. The spirit of patriotism and unity is really inspiring, and depending on where you go, the damage done by the war is incredibly moving.

    Best wishes for a safe trip, and I hope you find it to be as positive of an experience as I did.

    • Matthew Klint Reply
      February 22, 2023 at 9:28 pm

      Thank you, Kyle.

  10. SAN Greg Reply
    February 22, 2023 at 10:08 pm

    Nothing in life is risk free and I admire those with an adventurous spirit. Looking forward to following your journey. Wishing you safe travels and stay warm. Carpe diem!

  11. Greg Reply
    February 22, 2023 at 11:35 pm

    I’m not going to be as critical of Matthew as others. It’s not the same call that I would make, especially if I still had young kids but I don’t live in his head or his relationship with his wife,

    I don’t have any burning desire to travel to Ukraine while there is still an active shooting war, but I do plan on returning to flight school and getting my pilot’s license once my kids are out of my house and on their own. That’s probably almost as dangerous as going to Kyiv right now.

  12. Santastico Reply
    February 23, 2023 at 12:01 am

    Safe travels Matthew. You are on my prayers. All will be good.

  13. Joseph Story Reply
    February 23, 2023 at 2:02 am

    He acts like he is the only American in Ukraine when there are literally dozens of Americans blogging about going into war torn Ukraine. You are not unique, my friend.

    • Matthew Klint Reply
      February 23, 2023 at 2:03 am

      Don’t make stupid assumptions or put words in my mouth Mr. Justice.

  14. Paul Reply
    February 23, 2023 at 3:42 am

    It’s important to give some notion of normal life to people of Ukraine. Being a visitor in this time is a sign of support to the nation in distress. Even a small token like spending money for food and accommodation can support businesses. Be safe.

    • Queen DZ Reply
      February 23, 2023 at 5:55 am

      ukraine has no right to even exist! It’s already patient and heroic of Putin that he has allowed this to happen since 1991. Fuck you

      • Jack Reply
        February 23, 2023 at 12:22 pm

        Run along troll Putin’s time is coming to an end

  15. Mick Reply
    February 23, 2023 at 4:37 am

    I am enjoying the posts. Life is full of risks and rewards. It’s no different to abseiling or ropes courses etc. a risk of injury tjst is probably minimal.

    We walked with kids along the streets of Saigon in December. No footpaths often. People would probably say risky but we felt safe and watched where we were going. And loved the experience. Where are the naysayers drawing the line here? Ukraine bad? What risk in adventure is too much ?

  16. Nakul Reply
    February 23, 2023 at 5:22 am

    I don’t understand the negativity. Matthew is an adult and perfectly entitled to make his own decisions based on his own assessment of risk. Keep this series going, Mathew – it’s very entertaining! Oh, and I hope you find great coffee in Kyiv.

    • Queen DZ Reply
      February 23, 2023 at 5:54 am

      Honey, kiev is destroyed and there is no basic food, let alone coffee

      • Kyle Reply
        February 23, 2023 at 10:46 am

        That’s just objectively not true.

      • Jack Reply
        February 23, 2023 at 12:23 pm

        That will do troll, that will do

      • Randrew Reply
        February 23, 2023 at 1:44 pm

        I’ve purchased electronic circuits from a designer in Kyiv several times during this war, most recently last month. Interesting how he’s able to not only design and build such things, but also ship them to the US with me receiving them within 12 days of order.

  17. Nakul Reply
    February 23, 2023 at 5:23 am

    I don’t understand how I could spell your name correctly, and then incorrectly in the same post – sorry!

  18. Queen DZ Reply
    February 23, 2023 at 5:53 am

    Kiev not kyiv, and why do you even speak polish?

    • Albert Reply
      February 23, 2023 at 8:57 am

      Kyiv is the Ukrainian spelling genius. Please never comment again.

    • KT Reply
      February 23, 2023 at 8:48 pm

      Putin whack job. Hope you don’t get thrown out of a sixteen story window anytime soon. Seems to be happening pretty frequently these days ….

  19. Derek Reply
    February 23, 2023 at 6:33 am

    Matthew isn’t exactly live blogging this. He said it would be blogged via delay.

    Could he have been part of the recent Congressional delegation to Ukraine as support staff? Congress visited a day after Biden did

  20. Matthew Reply
    February 23, 2023 at 8:15 am

    I respect and follow you for your work as an enthusiastic travel writer. But what’s the point here? Are you going to show us pictures of bombed houses, or pictures of daily life in Kiew? For what? To proof you as an adventurer (you are a „Gaffer“ – let your wife tell you what that means in English). To support the people in Ukraine? (You have no political influence, sorry). Please, I want to continue reading this aviation and travel blog. Show some decency and abort your trip. There is nothing you can show us, which does not proof you as an attention seeker or gaffer. There is dramatic lack of resources in Ukraine, and there will be a day when there will be again enough of power/heat/water to also pamper you in an downtown 5 star hotel.

    • Matthew Klint Reply
      February 23, 2023 at 10:30 am

      I held off for months on a trip to Ukraine thinking that this was the case (resources too limited to support foreign guests), but I found that this is not the case in reality (both with contacts on the ground before my arrival and upon my arrival)…it simply is not true.

      • Matthew Reply
        February 23, 2023 at 11:19 am

        Safe travels anyway.

  21. Erez Reply
    February 23, 2023 at 10:08 am

    Hey as an Israeli I will not go to Israel when there is war with Hamas a despite the iron dome. Ukraine as far as I know is does not have the iron dome. I will not call you stupid. I would say you are a family man if I recall. Stay safe.

  22. Criminal Law Expert Reply
    February 24, 2023 at 2:13 pm

    Longtime reader, first time commenter. I am befuddled at the number of ignorant commenters who slander the author. Ukraine, while risky, is not off-limits to Americans. It is not a selfish act to travel there. What travel does not include some risks? It is not “disaster tourism.” Perhaps no better way to convince the naysayers than to report that our very own United States Department of Justice is recruiting an attorney to work in Kyiv as a Resident Legal Advisor?

    I am not aware of the blog’s policy regarding links so I will not include one, but if you search USDOJ careers and filter the site to show attorney positions overseas, this vacancy is the first that appears.

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