This week I’m “liveblogging” my trip to Ukraine. Unlike traditional reports, these posts will be shorter and more frequent.
Those in the West who are anti-Ukraine in the current war usually throw out the following trope: well, the Russians may be corrupt, but the Ukrainians are just as corrupt if not more. It’s such an easy way to marginalize a whole nation of people…and my experience in recovering my lost Apple Watch suggests just the opposite.
I Was Reunited With My Apple Watch!
Later in the week, I hope to pen a post that discusses the complexity of the Ukraine War. I may not be a policymaker, but I have followed this war closely (that is, after all, what drew me to Ukraine) and the truth is never as simple or as black and white as we’d like it to be. But here’s what I can testify to you: the Ukrainian people are strong and resilient and rather than see corruption at every corner, I’ve seen bravery…and now honesty.
Earlier, I lamented that I had lost my Apple Watch (I foolishly left it on the train).
I hopped in an Uber and traveled to the train station, having already concluded I would never see my watch again. But just in case, I thought I needed to go and look.
Upon reaching the station, I went up to a “supervisor” desk and asked about lost and found. No one spoke English, but I used Google Translate on my phone. The woman behind the counter made a call and presently a woman wearing an orange jacket named Bipa approached me and asked if she could help, also noting she spoke English.
I explained the issue to her and she nodded and sent a message on her phone. I had my ticket with me and she took down the details of that too.
While I expected her to tell me to check back the following day or wait for a call, she told me to hang on. For the next 30 minutes, we did hang out (and also discussed, as I was back at the train station, how I should return to Warsaw).
Presently, her phone rang. She answered it and after an extended conversation, smiled at me and said, “Your watch was located. We will get it when the train arrives.”
Apparently, the train attendant in my car had located my watch and was holding it. Although she had just made the 18-hour journey from Warsaw to Kyiv the prior evening, she was returning to Warsaw on the train back.
We just had to wait for her car to show up.
As 7:00 pm approached, there were several cars on the track, but not car number three. Finally, it pulled up and Bipa and I boarded the train. There, the attendant appeared and with a wry smile, handed me my watch back. I thanked her profusely (in Ukrainian) and she blushed…I also asked for a picture with her, which she agreed to (though it did not turn out very well):
Back inside the terminal, I thanked Bipa as well and we took a photo together before I departed the station.
CONCLUSION
Bipa means faith in Ukrainian and I thought her name was so fitting of this entire ordeal. I am still surprised I got my watch back, but so thankful…and while just a small anecdote in a complex situation, no one can say that the war has robbed these fine folks of their humanity.
If you’re traveling through Kyiv and need help, look for Bipa or other ladies wearing orange at the main railway station. They are guardian angels.
Awesome story. No matter where you go in this world, there are still great people out there. That is what gives me hope.
Oh wow, definitely an unexpected (but very welcome) ending! Congrats!
I love this story!
Is her name Bipa or Vera?
Bipa looks very much like the Cyrillic spelling of Vera.
This would be a fitting name.
Vera, I suppose. Wonderful lady.
Fantastic story. Have faith in humanity.
In Cyrillic, Bipa is written in Ukraine alphabet, Bepa is written in Russian alphabet. Same name in latin wrotes Vira and Vera which means faith in both laugauges. Faith is the female name in US too.
I do agree about what they say about corruption level in Ukraine. Hioefully it goes much lower soon. That does not mean that among ordinary people there is lack of honesty. Good that you got your watch back, now focus on steps challenge 🙂
I have to give you a huge credit for taking that trip, close to war zone. Even more, taking the 2×18 hours train to go there and back proves that you do have the balls. Between all those Boardingarea “bloggers” I could not see any other person that would take the same trip at the same time beside Brian “The Gate” Cohen. Both of you are “Down to Earth” guys, not only shiny-flashy business and international first class flights with uberexpensive hotels for whatever reasons.
Love this, and I’m really enjoying your report. I am of Ukrainian heritage and have never been there. I am contemplating a journey based on your reporting, though I think I’ll wait until such time as getting to Kyiv is possible without the long rail trip!
My wife would give you a thorough “hood beatdown” if you didn’t give both the girls chocolates. It’s not too late. If Vera isn’t on duty, leave the gifts at the desk and they’ll get them to the girls. Perhaps include something from your amenity kit collection if you have some on you?
Ukraine has grown tremendously in the past 10 years and particularly since the war which tends to remind us of what matters in life. I appreciate you want to write up on the war, but be careful in that a little knowledge can be dangerous in that there’s a tremendous amount of Russian post-modernist disinformation out there with a skewed interpretation of history. I’ll give you my rundown (including an honest assessment from my view of Ukraine’s flaws, like anyone has) in the matter for food-for-thought. You can email my account at: polishknightusa aaaat gmail dottt com
Note: You should chat with the conductor and complain about the smoking in the hallways. They aren’t supposed to do that. They’re supposed to smoke between the wagons although that doesn’t help (much).
Matthew, I have enjoyed these reports. Ignore the naysayers.
This is probably the first series of blog posts where I’ve honestly been checking multiple times per day to see if an update is posted. You are no journalist, and I think that’s what makes this so fascinating. You’re sharing the experience that I or anybody else would have about traveling to Ukraine right now, and sharing what life is like for the Ukranian people, rather than what the headlines are about.
Honestly, did you actually go here just because of the war? Why? I just assumed you had some business there from the other posts, but if you actually did this just chasing clout, shame on you.
Go piss up a rope. This is some of the best travel reporting I’ve read.
^ +1
Truly adult-like conversations here. I can’t say I’m surprised.
Do a quick wipe of the phone lense. It’ll help get rid of the light streaks. Especially when dark.
Great reporting so far.
“There, the attendant appeared and with a wry smile, handed me my phone back.”
You meant watch?
I have to admit that this trip sounded dangerous and a little fool hearty. But, I am thoroughly enjoying the reports and my heart is lifting as you bring us stories about the wonderful people you’ve been meeting who are living under hellish conditions. This is TRUE travel blogging and I’m reading every report. This is so much more educating than some of the other click bait blogs from the ‘travel influencers.’ Continue to travel safe and keep reporting. This is GREAT stuff. And as another ccomment noted .. tell the ‘naysayers’ to jump in a lake.
Churchill used to say “War is savage”. The war government and its military commit atrocities on the battle field but the civilians are caught in the barbaric cross fire. After the USSR collapsed, Ukraine possessed the largest nuclear arsenals in the world. But it abolished them in order to be ally of the EU. Now, the EU and the US have the moral, economic and militarily responsibilities to support Ukraine to the ultimate victory, peace and prosperity. Watching the destruction of war ravages Ukraine must convince all of us, who are in the right frame of mind, to see that Ukraine achieves such goals. Now is not the time to discuss corruption and white nationalist problems in Ukraine. Hats off to you to do what you dearly love but always remember about your dependents as well.
+1
I see no mention that you gave either woman a reward, or at least offered to do so. While profuse thanks is always appreciated a reward of some kind, even a small token, would seem to be appropriate.
Hallelujah – there ARE some good people in this world! This trip report, as it continues, is fascinating to read. Stay safe and travel well Matthew.
Goodness is everywhere. Not so hard to find it in those that care, take pride in their work and lives, and have values. I still believe that it accounts for 89.4%% of the world. The others just have a way of creeping into our lives otherwise and ruining the joy.
Great story, Matthew.
having lived and studied in both Ukraine and Russia (about 4 years after the break up Soviet Union) I can attest to the fact that there is a huge difference in the attitudes of the two nationalities. Ukrainians are more hospitable and kind hearted than Russians.
What a wonderful story!
Having met and spoken with young men from Ukraine and Russia on a recent stop in Montenegro,it drove home the insanity of the entire Ukraine /Russia situation in modern day Europe.Both men were returning home and could be called up for combat.As with the Balkan war of the 90s,this hopefully is soon just another bitter memory.